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Thread: Clutch bleeding

  1. #1

    Clutch bleeding

    Anyone know what the correct way of bleeding a clutch is? I have seen at least 4 different ways and so far I still have weaka$$ pedal pressure after a WOT run.
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  2. #2
    Ol' School BAD LS1's Avatar
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    the way i showed you how back a couple years ago works great. Unless you blew the o rings out of it again... The clutch fingers expand outward that contact the slave as rpms rise, pushing the slave back and more fuild into the master and resivior. If the o rings are shot all that feed back will by pass and go on the oppostite side of the piston in the master. My stock plastic GM slave did this, new mcleod master 2 years ago solved all, just ran cheap ass dot3 in it, never a issue what so ever.
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  3. #3
    The problem we had last time isnt occuring this time. I did have to rebuild the Mcloed because of the ATE. Mcleod advised against it saying that it was very aggressive in wearing down the seals in their product. I am running plain of dot 3/4 but I dont quite remember the way you told me.

  4. #4
    Senior Member..now yer posting!
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    so if i were to change the clutch in my 96 ss i would have to bleed the clutch to make it work right what is the way to bleed it?

  5. #5
    LT1 POWER HP ADDICT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quick96ss
    so if i were to change the clutch in my 96 ss i would have to bleed the clutch to make it work right what is the way to bleed it?
    No if you are only changing the clutch you will not have to bleed anything. Only if you install a StreetTwin that requires a new master cylinder, or if your stock hydrolics would fail.

  6. #6
    Post whore PonyKiller87's Avatar
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    So can someone explain this clutch bleeding process. When I swapped in the T56 I bled my clutch a coulpe of times and I swear theres got to be a better way to do it than what I did.

    Is the McLeod clutch master a direct replacement? or do I need to modify stuff even more. I already have a combination of parts because I went from the stock 3rd gen auto setup to a combination of 3rd/4th gen parts to make the T56 work.
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  7. #7
    LT1 POWER HP ADDICT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PonyKiller87
    So can someone explain this clutch bleeding process. When I swapped in the T56 I bled my clutch a coulpe of times and I swear theres got to be a better way to do it than what I did.

    Is the McLeod clutch master a direct replacement? or do I need to modify stuff even more. I already have a combination of parts because I went from the stock 3rd gen auto setup to a combination of 3rd/4th gen parts to make the T56 work.
    Not to familiar with what you swapped but I would imagine it would bolt together no problem, as it is a direct replacement for the stock master(you reuse the old slave). The Mcleod is adjustable and moves more fluid.
    As far as the bleeding goes, not positive on the Ls1 cars but on Lt1 there is no bleeder so your best bet is to remove the slave from the tranny, hold it as vertical as possible and pump the shyt out of it in short strokes while someone lightly keeps a finger over the hole on the resevoir cap.
    Randy

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