Hey guys, anyone have or know how well the Honeywell IAQ thermostat setups work?

I like the fact they will link to a Econnect thermostat for controlling baseboard heaters. That coupled with the three programmable user-relays seems like it will be a perfect fit for me since I not only have to use the baseboard heaters in the master suite, but I also want to automatically control a custom set of relays for air circulation. I already have a circuit designed and all the parts to add it to my current setup, but the Honeywell would make it more 'integrated'... and the reminders for the electronic air cleaner maintenance (pre-filter and cell cleaning, post-filter replacement, etc) is a really nice touch. I also like the idea that it can tell me if there is a problem with the system before I end up with a complete failure.

Along with the blower motor change (from a 1/3hp shaded-poled to a 1/3hp PSC) I also am replacing the gas valve, 3-wire pilot, igniter element, igniter module, hi-tension lead and even the main controller since everything is original from 1989. I figure 24 years is a good run and I might as well replace all the usual suspects before something fails. I already suspect the gas valve pressure switch, and it ratchets instead of positively clicking for actuating the main gas valve. I ended up going with a 36C94-303 latest model gas valve that eliminates the potential gas leak around the blue on/off valvestem my current model can develop. I primarily started looking into doing the gas valve since the igniter has also sparked the pilot well into the main burners running. It looks like there is an internal pressure switch on the gas valve that is supposed to drop-out once the main gas valve actuates (which I may be wrong about, but I wouldn't imagine that Carrier would want the spark arcing until the duty cycle of the igniter shuts it off, unless they want that to prevent blow-outs upon main burner ignition). If the pressure switch is supposed to stay active through the main burn ignition than I would imagine they should have an internal diode to not back-feed the hold voltage to the igniter. In either case either the switch is bad, or the diode is burned out, thus necessitating the replacement of the gas valve. In any case if there is no diode or the switch is supposed to stay active I have come up with a circuit change that puts the 3-way pilot on the outlet of the pressure switch instead of the hold wiring being wyed for it, which allows for the igniter to shut off once the main gas valve is commanded to open. So I will figure that all out once I put the new gas valve in next week, but for now I at least know my existing setup won't burn out the igniter.

I figure with all the furnace upgrades I should be set for quite some time (hopefully another 24 years) before having to worry about dealing with issues with the furnace.

Feedback on the Honeywell IAQ HD would be greatly appreciated since I would like to be done with the HVAC setup and that is one of the last pieces of the puzzle.