Bikedads Constant Rebuild

[bikedad]

I wasn't sure where to stick this post. My engine is GM but the car is JDM. I figured the drivetrain takes precedence.

My 1986 Mazda RX7 is swapped with a Gen1 SBC 383 Stroker. It had a 91 Camaro T5 trans and I'm running the Mazda TII Turbo differential which is an 8" clutch pack posi IRS.
The motor started out as a stock Chevy 350 in 2008. I've since rebuilt it twice since due to wants and needs (Horsepower) to it's present configuration.

The T5 has held up fairly well all things considered. About 60 runs at GLD and countless showing off on the street.
About 2 months ago I was having my usual fun. Pulling out of a parking lot from a stop light drifting, banging gears and smoking tires. Just as I was going into third the whole car felt like it lifted off the ground with a loud bang. No more forward motion and the transmission sounding like ball bearings rolling around in steel garbage can.
Yup, trans grenaded with flourish.

I was going to just purchase another T5 and call it a day. Some members from Norotors convinced me that I need to go T56. I started looking for a T56 from an LT1 because that bolts right up to my Gen1 bellhousing. Due to my 2 piece rear main seal I found that I would need to swap my flywheel with a conversion flywheel that would allow this to work. That flywheel cost about $550 dollars. Plus the cost of the trans which usually run around $1500 for a used LT1 T56 and a new clutch assembly to work with the conversion I started to change my mind.
One of the guys on the Norotors forum pointed me to a transdapt plate that would allow me to use my current clutch,flywheel and bellhousing setup with an LS1 T56.
The cost of the transdapt plate was $200. I sourced an LS1 T56 from LS1Tech out of Texas for $1100 shipped.
So, back to the 6 speed route.
Before I blew the tranny, (wait, that doesn't sound right) Before the trans blew I was having some issues with burning oil at cylinders 3 and 5. I figured the intake manifold gaskets broke on me again. (it happened to me when the engine was a 355 right after I put on the massaged Vortec heads) I was going to replace the gaskets but also decided to replace the heads with Edelbrock Etec 200cc aluminum heads. (my current heads were iron Vortec heads that have been completely reworked)

I finally got everything done this weekend except exhaust because my system was designed around the T5 and it's trans brace. I have an appointment to have the exhaust system redone Friday.

Here's some pictures of how I did this:

With the T5 first gear was pretty much useless. At 70MPH I was at 3100 RPMs with my 4:10 geared rearend. With the T56 first gear is now useable and I can tell that I should be around 2000 RPM or lower at 70MPH. (I have to wait till the exhaust is done to verify. I'll update when I find out)
I have not wired the Reverse Lockout solonoid or the Skipshift. I don't see a reason for it and it shifts great so far. (yes I drove with open headers. lol)

I love having the 6 speed!

Here's some pictures of how I did all this:

Here's the trans:


Pulling the motor and trans:




Here's the broken intake gasket. I believe from a backfire through the carb when timing was off last Fall.


Chasing the threads for ARP headbolts:



The new heads:


Getting close:


Here's the Gen1 block 2 piece rear main seal:


Centerforce DF Clutch with 6 puck disc:


Bellhousing, TOB:


Transdapt plate to mount LS1 T56 to Gen1 SBC:


Fork with plate installed:


Bolting the Transdapt to Bellhousing:


LS1 T56 bolted to Transdapt. The Transdapt plate holds the TOB in place so there is no issue with trying to get the TOB lined up.
If I need to pull the transmission at a future date then I just unbolt the 7 bolts and remove driveshaft.


Back in the car and bolted up. I had to use a special T56 trans brace manufactured by Granny's Speed shop. Pretty much bolt the motor in, mount the brace to the trans.
Raise the trans into position and drill new holes for the brace. I aslo had to have my driveshaft resized due to the extra length of the T56. I have my DS
work done by Machine Service in Waukesha. 1 day turn around. Pretty sweet!


With the T5 the shifter was way forward. I had to cut out a large hole to accommodate it. With the T56 it now sits back in the stock position.
I cut out some sheet metal and covered the old hole.

[Prince Valiant]

Looking good! Kevin better have been helping, lol...

[Prince Valiant]

BTW, what heads did you have on before?

[bikedad]

Looking good! Kevin better have been helping, lol...

Kevin was pretty busy. He wanted to help. lol
I built the car myself so this was actually pretty simple stuff. This is the third time around pulling the motor so I have it down to a science. lol

[bikedad]

BTW, what heads did you have on before?

The heads before were Iron Vortec heads. They were ported and massaged for the Comp Cams SS 2.02/1.60 valves, dual springs, recessed seats for my .560 lift solid cam.
There's nothing wrong with them. I just wanted aluminum heads. I'm going to be putting them up for sale here real soon.

[Prince Valiant]

I'm sure the chasis will appreciate the decreased weight up front, and the engine will like the increased intake port volume....

I'd be curious to see what kind of power it'll make from just the head swap...if there is any difference (I'd be betting that there would be...)

[Moparjim]

Cool thread! Im shocked that giant ass t56 fits in there!

[WhatsADSM]

Looks great!

[Silver86]

lol at the title... would expect that if it still had the rotary under the hood. haha

good looking setup btw.

[bikedad]

Cool thread! Im shocked that giant ass t56 fits in there!

I had to trim the trans brace mount (stock Mazda 5 speed)on one side of the tunnel. Other than that it fit right in.
Most of the RX7 swaps are running LS motors and T56 transmissions. I knew it would fit just fine.

[bikedad]

lol at the title... would expect that if it still had the rotary under the hood. haha

good looking setup btw.

LOL! My problem is I'm never satisfied with things as they are.
My next project will probably be Explorer/Cobra 8.8 swap for the diff. Also a common swap with the new cradles that have been developed.
This is my 3rd TII diff in the car. The other two had pinion bearing noise and too much lash. They both started out noisy and just got worse. Typical problems with them due to the very long pinion shaft.
The current diff in the car I replaced as well. I figured as long as I had everything out of the car I might as well take care of it before I put the exhaust back on. It only takes me about 2 hours to do. This one I had rebuilt by Kilpatrick. Hopefully it'll last a little longer. They're not bad really. They can take a lot of abuse. They are 8" posi clutched posi diffs it's just that I kept getting worn rearends before.

[Nix]

Sweet build man. Are you ever around Muskego? Or Mukwonago? I swear I've seen this car out and about sometime this spring/summer. Either that or there is a imposter! Regardless great thread

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

[bikedad]

Sweet build man. Are you ever around Muskego? Or Mukwonago? I swear I've seen this car out and about sometime this spring/summer. Either that or there is a imposter! Regardless great thread

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Yeah that was probably me. I live in Genesee Depot. I'm all over Waukesha with it. At least up to 2 months ago. lol

[Nix]

It think I saw you fartin around with someone on 83 a couple months back. Another time I believe I saw you on mooreland in Muskego by Kohls a while back. Both times you were gettin on it pretty good.

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[spooln30]

Nice! Most people wouldn't think a V8 would fit into a small car but you have lots og room around that Sbc.