HVAC Issues!! -- AC Problem

[Slow Joe]

Well I figured I'd check with the gurus on here before calling someone (hell maybe someone on here even could check it out)...

I have a Bryant Evolution 90i furnace and an older Bryant AC unit.

Last night my AC Lines, etc iced up, house got up to 74* (was set at 68) by this morning. I shut everything down, let it thaw, rinsed off the AC unit fins, and changed the furnace filter.

When I turn on only the fan on high it will go on. When I turn the thermostat on cool it lowers the fan speed (substantially) and if I shut it off I can't reactivate the fan on high (or any speed for that matter). After I power cycle it then it will go back on high fan.

From what I've read the Evolution furnaces had lots of issues with the circuit boards.

Any ideas?

[awsomeears]

I have worked on a TON of these furnaces, what year is it ? if you don't know check the serial number on the tag of the furnace. xx01 means 2001

Low Med and High will work independently if the cool and heat button are OFF, they will not work while in Cool mode or Heat mode.

when the system is turned on the blower does run for at least 7-10 mins for about 70% of the total fan speed so be patient.

When you Power cycle it aka TURN THE SWITCH OFF THEN ON that is a standard 90 min purge every furnace known to man this day and age Does....

I'm %95 positive your low on R-22, depending how much its going to cost allot !!!

At work we charge $175 per pound installed, last year was $120 but R-22 per pound our cost is around $30 per pound

Your best bet is to replace the A/C system, you will dump to much money into it, most likely 9 out of 10 times the A-coil has a leak. If you were to replace the coil your talking around 600 in materials alone no labor, add 4 hours you got a big repair bill.

Been doing this for 8 years and R-22 is sealing its own fate with what it cost, new stuff is now R-410

Your to far away for me to help....

The only contractor I think that is near you that I trust and does great work is Pats Heating

[Slow Joe]

I actually figured out the low/high thing earlier today... I was reading the manual trying to figure out why it kept saying to set it to auto in heat/cool modes. I turned on my dehumidifier (to help lower the humidity in the house) and put the furnace on Cool & Auto... It's back to working again, so for now I'm going to let it be.

The furnace is from 2005. The AC unit is from 1998 according to my inspector when we bought the house, however I couldn't find a date on it. I was told by a friend that use to work in HVAC that the AC unit is way undersized for the house so once it starts requiring repair I'm just going to replace it.

Quite a few people recommended Pats to me. I'll probably have them come out and inspect my furnaces (home and garage) for winter, and depending on how the AC is going maybe get a quote on replacement then.

Thanks for your insight!

[awsomeears]

Joe walk your house and count your supplys and let me know your sq ft of the home, I can tell ya what you need !!!!

Pat's heating is a company who we recommend when " outside " our area people call, they also give us business, if you choose them drop my name Brad from Stramowski Heating and Cooling. We have worked together on other ventures. Good people !!!

[Lash]

Oconomowoc is our of your area? Lol

[CATNHAT]

Stay away from Aasen Heating out there. That guy is a fucking crook asshole and a half!

[Slow Joe]

Well, it's back to broke, now I have the error below on the screen and a "41" code on the flashing lights which is a blower motor problem... Any ideas on how to test things to diagnose what's actually wrong with it?

[Slow Joe]

I forgot to add it's a 355MAV and the SN says it's a '04 model.

[awsomeears]

Those furnaces are no better then there OLD 90i version, hate to say it, I have fixed way way way to many of these. Blowers on that model should be a TWO piece. The end Bell as I call it is most of the brains. There is a large resistor in there that burns up on every single one I Have worked on. Even when installed right these motors have issues...

The symptoms are blower that moves but super slow or it can not find center or a start point and rocks back and forth over and over, I have YET to have a bad blower, just the END bell

Here is a good write up, believe it or not my Uncle tracked down this resistor and soldered it on Armstrong furnace for his buddys, I would never do it but that is just me, then again the resistor was like $.80 cents so I guess never say never :-)

http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/bryan...tarting-22408/

[Slow Joe]

Tried replacing the resistor, didn't work. Replaced the bell on the end (motor controller - HK44EA120 since my model number on the furnace is 355MAV042060FIKA I was told this is the one for it). Didn't work. Same problem. The motor no longer spins up at all with either controller.

How do I test the HD44RE120 motor to see if it's bad?

[Slow Joe]

Nevermind, I actually found the way to ohm it out. It has to be under 20 ohms and within +/- 10%... Of which it's not. FML.

[awsomeears]

its rare to have a bad motor !!!

I bet ya it got wet from a possible frozen coil, plug drain line ...

[Slow Joe]

Just (finally) replaced the motor & controller... Spun up (twice) but threw the 41 code (same as before)... Now it's not spinning up anymore.

Guess I'm calling a dealer unless someone has an idea. This is beyond frustrating.

[Lash]

Or you could call a tech lol

[Slow Joe]

Or you could call a tech lol

Same difference?

[nismodave]

Oconomowoc is our of your area? Lol

Lol, yea. I was told Jackson was out of his area as well.

[awsomeears]

Wish you guys were closer, slo joe something is not setup right. When you say motor and controller, do you mean circuit board ?

[pOrk]

He tolde I needed to replace my furnace 4 years ago, and its still works like a champ today with less then $90 into it. Just saying, might be best to get a 2nd opinion

[awsomeears]

He tolde I needed to replace my furnace 4 years ago, and its still works like a champ today with less then $90 into it. Just saying, might be best to get a 2nd opinion

Are you referring that to me ?

[Slow Joe]

Wish you guys were closer, slo joe something is not setup right. When you say motor and controller, do you mean circuit board ?

Since this is the Evolution with the GE ECM 2.5 it has a motor with a "bell cap" as many call it, which is the controller for the motor. I replaced both of those, which spun up twice then stopped working. I spoke with the local Bryant dealer who's coming out here Thursday AM, since a service call is only $90. He thinks it's the main board, which tested fine when I used my multimeter on it, however since it's digital there may be an intermittent IC or a problem with the CPU, he said that he's never seen a motor go bad one one of these since they're relatively high end and have ball bearing motors... However mine doesn't turn easily, and ohmed out improperly. The one I bought spins freely.

Supposedly it's just supposed to be "plug in and go" since it's the ECM system... But since this guy has special test equipment I'm going to let him test it, I'm sick of messing with it... Although I'm not going to let him put the board in if that's what he finds wrong with it, since I can get a new one in the static bag online for like $250, and he wants $450 + installation.