99 Galant 2.4

[Korndogg]

My buddy's car shut off on him going to work this morning. It cranks but will no start. It is getting fuel but no spark from any of the plugs. Could this be a crank or camshaft sensor? We ran out of time, so I couldn't look into it anymore today so I figured I would ask around.

[Prince Valiant]

though it's something that usually happens on start-up, I'd guess the potential could also be timing belt...does it sound normal when trying to start it up? It's a non-interference engine...would sound give a different type sound when trying to start...a more determined chugging so to speak.

[Korndogg]

Sounds normal to me. I took the timing cover off and everything looked normal. But I'm also no used to working on these.

[wikked]

It's a non-interference engine

The 2.4L 4g64 in that Galant IS indeed an interference engine

Crank sensor might have taken a dump, easy enough to test.

CPS (Camshaft Position Sensor) might also be the culprit, pray it isn't this. Might as well do a timing belt job while you're down there if it is.
While the upper timing cover is off, you can pry the lower cover open (with your finger), and shine a flashlight down there to see if it has broken where it bolts in.

The sensor that is sticking out above the 2 bolt holes is usually what breaks.

[Prince Valiant]

The 2.4L 4g64 in that Galant IS indeed an interference engine

ah...for some reason I thought the 2.4 was similar/identical to the chrysler 2.4...much like the old eclipse/avenger/sebring 2.0 was markedly the same engine as the 2.0 (with a couple changes). mea culpa...

[Korndogg]

ok thanks guys, I'll check them out.

[Korndogg]

Ok so I unplugged the crankshaft sensor and its reading open on all three terminals. I'm not sure how these sensors work since I've never really messed with this shit. Also I have no idea how to get to the sensor. Do I just take off the timing belt and top pulley and it's down in there?

[wikked]

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CAS is the rectangular plug and crank is the triangular plug.

Disconnect CAS connector.
Measure the voltage on harness side pin 3, the red wire, with the key turned to on voltage should be 12 v or more.
Then make sure you have continuity, 0 ohms, on harness side pin 1, the black wire, to ground.
Then measure the voltage on harness side pin 2, the blue and red wire, with key on should be 4.8-5.2V.
Reconnect CAS.
Measure voltage on pin 2, blue and red, while starting the engine it should be 0.4-3.0V. With the engine idling it should be 0.5-2.0 V. If you have 0V your cas is dead since you should get some sort of volt reading.

its the same for the crank except the cranking voltage will be .4 to 4.0 v and the sensor wire, pin 2, will be blue and white. Idling is 1.5 to 2.5>>

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[Korndogg]

Ok thanks. I can't take any running measurements since it just cranks but won't start. I'm going to head back over there on Monday. Ran out of time again tonight. He actually bought a crank sensor and we were just going to put the new one in and see if that worked but getting to it is a pain in the dick.

[wikked]

Hmm... now that I research s'more, the Cam pos. sensor isn't down there.

It's 14846 in this diagram:

The CRANK angle sensor, is down there, #14932, aka the bitch.

[Korndogg]

Yeah I really didn't look for the cam sensor yet, good to know its over there though haha. The crank sensor is a bitch. Gotta take the lower timing cover off and obviously the crank bolt is being a bitch.

[wikked]

You can zip tie the timing belt to the pulley, to save some headache, if need be.
I'd still mark the belt/pulley with a paint marker just in case.

Crank bolt is no match for a decent impact