Tankless water heater

[jbiscuit]

I have a power vented AO Smith stand up hot water heater and this thing is the cat's meow! Can re-heat the entire tank in minutes. Almost endless supply of hot water. Granted this is a $1600 unit but I see no need to go tankless with this!

[wrath]

For one my shitter uses cold water not hot and "Features: Delivers over 6 gallons per minute - enough to run two showers at once. Direct vent room-sealed combustion. Built-in power vent allows for vertical or horizontal venting. Provides ENDLESS supply of hot water. Electronic ignition plugs into 120V (no standing pilot). Space saving size and weighs only 67 pounds. Energy Star qualified. Remote thermostat model TSTAT2 available to digitally control output temperature." This will give plenty of water and does not need special wiring. Even if it would need new wire ran it is not far from the breaker box so that would not be much of an issue. This is an Aquastar 2400ES-NG Natural Gas Tankless Water Heater which is $1000 but would be easy enough to install. I would borrow a torch from my brother or dad to do this cause I trust brazing the lines more than fittings if brazing is an option then why not do it?
-Nick

The toilet comment I made is a pressure vs flow thing. It's difficult to explain. There is a real risk of running out of hot water because the flow through the heater is too great but what I was getting at was what someone else said, the toilet tricking the water heater to turn off briefly.

Bosch makes some of the best tankless water heaters, electric or dinosaur powered.

Chances are a large (high flow) liquified petroleum gas or natural gas water heater will require a new pipe and/or regulator. Otherwise if your furnace and your water heater come on at the same time you'll be short on fuel. I recommend finding the model of your furnace and look at what the minimum water column is for it, then cycle it. Most stuff needs at least 4" of water column at then the on-board regulator reduces it to whatever it needs. Awesomears is probably more familiar with it than me.

And yes, there are certain things you always want to have on separate breakers with one device on them (well pump, sump pump, water heater, range, dryer, and furnace) and depending on locality it is code.

Buy a MAPP torch for like $40 from Blain's. It makes soldering easy without overheating. Technically brazing is 800°+F sweating.

I'd spend the extra bucks for the 2700ES. It's like a grand on Amazon last I looked.

[awsomeears]

I have a power vented AO Smith stand up hot water heater and this thing is the cat's meow! Can re-heat the entire tank in minutes. Almost endless supply of hot water. Granted this is a $1600 unit but I see no need to go tankless with this!

And believe it or not your unit is still a standard water heater with a Draft Inducer motor on it, check the tag of energy used per year vs a standard and you will see there practically the same..

There great !!!

[MyP71Vic]

We are not buying anything till next year anyway so I have plenty of time to make the right choice unless ours craps out earlier. We do have a HE washer which I did not take into consideration for that. We have gas lines ran for our dryer, heater, and another one which runs outside for a gril hookup. There is a main point of connection which has larger pipe that I can tap into if needed. What else could be a potential issue? Thanks for all the advice so far I might end up staying with a normal tank heater if I can't find solutions to these.
-Nick

[BR3W CITY]

if you want to go look at some thing, and talk to some knowledgeable guys there is a place called HotWaterProducts over on (i think) Tuetonia. They are a contractor supply for water heaters, insulation products and solar stuff. I don't remember if they sell customer direct, but they usually are happy to give a little knowledge out.
I had a good relationship with these guys when I was still with a mechanical.

[wrath]

14" of water column is like .5psi. So, if you can imagine, there isn't a whole lot of flow because there isn't much pressure differential. You make this up by having large diameter pipes.

You can also get HE washers that keep the flow rate up for long enough to keep a normal tankless water heater from cycling. Most tankless heaters don't kick on until .5gpm but I have seen some with less. Our washer is a Maytag Epic Z (I think the same thing as a Whirlpool Sport or something) and it uses about 15 short bursts of hot water to fill the washer.

You can also get hybrid hot water heaters (small tank but instant on).