I have a power vented AO Smith stand up hot water heater and this thing is the cat's meow! Can re-heat the entire tank in minutes. Almost endless supply of hot water. Granted this is a $1600 unit but I see no need to go tankless with this!
I have a power vented AO Smith stand up hot water heater and this thing is the cat's meow! Can re-heat the entire tank in minutes. Almost endless supply of hot water. Granted this is a $1600 unit but I see no need to go tankless with this!
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2012 Subaru WRX STi 5-door
1964 Biscayne 2dr - 4-speed
The toilet comment I made is a pressure vs flow thing. It's difficult to explain. There is a real risk of running out of hot water because the flow through the heater is too great but what I was getting at was what someone else said, the toilet tricking the water heater to turn off briefly.
Bosch makes some of the best tankless water heaters, electric or dinosaur powered.
Chances are a large (high flow) liquified petroleum gas or natural gas water heater will require a new pipe and/or regulator. Otherwise if your furnace and your water heater come on at the same time you'll be short on fuel. I recommend finding the model of your furnace and look at what the minimum water column is for it, then cycle it. Most stuff needs at least 4" of water column at then the on-board regulator reduces it to whatever it needs. Awesomears is probably more familiar with it than me.
And yes, there are certain things you always want to have on separate breakers with one device on them (well pump, sump pump, water heater, range, dryer, and furnace) and depending on locality it is code.
Buy a MAPP torch for like $40 from Blain's. It makes soldering easy without overheating. Technically brazing is 800°+F sweating.
I'd spend the extra bucks for the 2700ES. It's like a grand on Amazon last I looked.
Buy made in the United States. Otherwise your job might be next. Unless you already wear black shoes and a visor with golden arches on it to work in which case your fellow american has already failed you.
We are not buying anything till next year anyway so I have plenty of time to make the right choice unless ours craps out earlier. We do have a HE washer which I did not take into consideration for that. We have gas lines ran for our dryer, heater, and another one which runs outside for a gril hookup. There is a main point of connection which has larger pipe that I can tap into if needed. What else could be a potential issue? Thanks for all the advice so far I might end up staying with a normal tank heater if I can't find solutions to these.
-Nick
if you want to go look at some thing, and talk to some knowledgeable guys there is a place called HotWaterProducts over on (i think) Tuetonia. They are a contractor supply for water heaters, insulation products and solar stuff. I don't remember if they sell customer direct, but they usually are happy to give a little knowledge out.
I had a good relationship with these guys when I was still with a mechanical.
BREW CITY // Forever in ink.
'66 Chevy Stepside / Big Cam LQ4 / Posi / Lowered / Built 4L80e
14" of water column is like .5psi. So, if you can imagine, there isn't a whole lot of flow because there isn't much pressure differential. You make this up by having large diameter pipes.
You can also get HE washers that keep the flow rate up for long enough to keep a normal tankless water heater from cycling. Most tankless heaters don't kick on until .5gpm but I have seen some with less. Our washer is a Maytag Epic Z (I think the same thing as a Whirlpool Sport or something) and it uses about 15 short bursts of hot water to fill the washer.
You can also get hybrid hot water heaters (small tank but instant on).
Buy made in the United States. Otherwise your job might be next. Unless you already wear black shoes and a visor with golden arches on it to work in which case your fellow american has already failed you.