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  1. #21
    Fact or Crap? Al's Avatar
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    Another update:
    I was talking with a few friends of mine and they suggested that I replace the bushing in the control arm, and not the whole arm. We got on this subject after I found out that getting a new lower control arm would be much more expensive than I thought.

    Most chain retailors sell the bushing for $15-25. Energy Suspension sells a complete front suspension kit for the same price. Maybe I should just get that. Also, I can use the money I saved to finally buy a hydraulic press!

    More updates later on...
    When Injustice Becomes Law; Rebellion Becomes Duty

  2. #22
    Fact or Crap? Al's Avatar
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    A pair of Energy Suspension bushings are on their way.
    When Injustice Becomes Law; Rebellion Becomes Duty

  3. #23
    Fact or Crap? Al's Avatar
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    I replaced the strut bushings on my car. This did eliminate one of the clunking noises that the car made, but the noise that concerns me the most is still present.

    I am truly stumped at this point.

    -I cannot get any looseness when I shake the tires
    -new struts
    -new lower sturt bushings

    Along with the thunking, I also get a very harsh vibration at very specific speeds. These speeds are 28 and 47 mph. It seems to be associated with the engine being at about ~1500 rpm and possibly the torque converter locking up. I think this is the lowest RPM that the engine will operate at in 3rd and 4th gear. At this RPM, the car feels like I am driving over washboard roads but the roads are smooth.

    I have heard that this could be the outer CV joint and possibly the the rack and pinion/inner tie rods.

    I think I am going to take the car in for an oil change at a Honda dealership and let them diagnose the issue. I also don't have an issue with taking the car to a shop and paying them to diagnose the issue, but not repair it (I'll fit it).
    Last edited by Al; 08-14-2011 at 01:41 PM.
    When Injustice Becomes Law; Rebellion Becomes Duty

  4. #24
    Fact or Crap? Al's Avatar
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    I just spent some time under my civic and checked just about everything to see what was loose.

    How loose should the inner CV joint be? The entire housing is loose!

    There is zero play between the shaft and the housing, but the splined shaft does not seem to fit into the transmission properly. There is about 1/8 inch of movement if I grab the inboard cv joint (not the shaft) and move it up and down. I remember that my 92 integra had some play even when a new shaft was installed, but I don't think it was this much.
    When Injustice Becomes Law; Rebellion Becomes Duty

  5. #25
    Fact or Crap? Al's Avatar
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    I found a/the issue...I think.

    I was looking at the passenger side engine mount when I noticed that the engine bracket was missing a bolt. Not only was the bolt missing, but the threaded boss on the engine was broken off. This just might be it.

    I'm pondering what I could/should do at this point.

    The proper thing would be to put a different engine in.
    An engine swap would be fun, but I am not motivated to spend $ like that right now.
    I could try to find a way to salvage what I have and MacGyver the mount.

    I'll try the MacGyver method first. I have every tool and material necessary to make this work.
    When Injustice Becomes Law; Rebellion Becomes Duty

  6. #26
    Fact or Crap? Al's Avatar
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    Another update:

    Over a period of a few weeks, I JB Welded a stud into the transmission housing (not the engine).

    It worked. No more loud thunk. Despite this glorious achievement, I'm ready to throw in the towel.

    Is something wrong with the car? Nothing important. It has it's fair share of creaks and rattles, but nothing that compromises the safety of the car.

    What is different is that I was hired on full time at my job last week. Not only did I get hired; I also received a raise. I can afford a decent car now.
    When Injustice Becomes Law; Rebellion Becomes Duty

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