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  1. #1
    Fact or Crap? Al's Avatar
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    Ford 400 Questions

    Hello All!

    As part of my business, I am buying a 1980 F350 with a 400 and a T19 with PTO. I know very little about this engine. In fact, this is my first non-efi engine that I have ever owned.

    Any pointers?
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  2. #2
    "Pil Seung" DR.FORD's Avatar
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    Watch the oil pressure-I think Ford put lead cranks in them
    "Never underestimate old guys"

  3. #3
    They have a very poor oiling sstem upgrade the pump to a high volume unit or don't expect it to last to long

  4. #4
    Fact or Crap? Al's Avatar
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    I've heard from a few people that the stock oil pump is adequte untill the engine begins to get modded. The engine is stock aside from that funky egr setup being removed.
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  5. #5
    Fact or Crap? Al's Avatar
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    I drove the truck the 40 miles home today. To be frank, it was not a plesant experience.

    The engine, which as been sitting for over a year, hesitates VERY bad. It cuts out at low throttle and low RPMs when driving through town.

    For the first 20 miles, it could not maintain anything above 30 mph in any gear. I could also be in 2nd at 25 mph, going up a slight incline, and it would cut out when I gave it even modest gas.

    As I drove it more, it seemed to be able to maintain more power but still drove like ass.

    I'm betting that 90% of what needs to be done is a tune up. I tried typing in "400M tune kit" on various web pages, but this specifically does not exist.

    What parts should I order?
    I already know that I will be getting plugs, wires, cap, rotor (points?), air filter, fuel filter, and oil/filter change.

    One guy is telling me to put a 4 barrel on it, but I'm thinking that is overkill for now.

    This is the first non-efi vehicle I have ever owned outside of RC airplanes.
    Last edited by Al; 06-19-2010 at 02:27 AM.
    When Injustice Becomes Law; Rebellion Becomes Duty

  6. #6
    carb rebuild wouldn't hurt.

  7. #7
    A regular know-it-all Tetris Champion Snake Champion Lasagna From Heaven Champion Mac Man Champion Mahjong. Champion Mini Putt 3 Champion Plastic Saucer Champion Ratman Ralph Champion Prince Valiant's Avatar
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    plugs, cap, wires, rotor and then see how she runs. There are no points on a 80's distributer. Oil change and filter/Fuel filter/air filter/PCV valve and breather are just good basic maintenance anyways for for any old car you pick up w/ suspect history.

    If it continues to run bad after this, then you can start to troubleshoot your problem more effectively knowing the basics are taken care of.
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  8. #8
    Praise the Lord. Reverend Cooper's Avatar
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    my dad had 2 wagons with 400 small blocks they lasted forever and would light the tires up all the time,me and my brother drove and beat the crap outta them as kids.

    special thanks to: Marv @ C&M performance 262-993-6605

  9. #9
    i just got a 1979 ford f250 hi pinion and its the same way....junk ass carb....im going to get an edlebrock intake, holley carb and an msd and call it the day......as far as stock invest some money and get all the fuel and ignition stuff rebuild or replaced with new...and the exhaust bosses on the cylinder head like to rust away...the thin cast iron tabs that hold the exhaust manifolds on....had to replace two sets like that . finally got a good castings from the machine shop and had them fully rebuilt. its a beast though

  10. #10
    Fact or Crap? Al's Avatar
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    Thanks!

    Another issue: The engine diesels after you kill the ignition.
    So far, I have heard that this can be due to running a hot spark plug or an excess carbon buildup in the heads.
    The previous owner said to run premium to avoid this issue.

    I'm waiting for a payment on a bedroom set that I built (the other business) before I can finish with this truck.

    Another thing that my friend and I troubleshooted was that the front calipers were siezed. First thought was "this is going to be expensive." I called around and found rmfg calipers for 32$. This is a far cry from the 150$ I spent on calipers for a 2003 Highlander a few weeks ago.
    Last edited by Al; 06-24-2010 at 03:16 AM.
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  11. #11
    Fact or Crap? Al's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by illmilcoating View Post
    i just got a 1979 ford f250 hi pinion and its the same way....junk ass carb....im going to get an edlebrock intake, holley carb and an msd and call it the day......as far as stock invest some money and get all the fuel and ignition stuff rebuild or replaced with new...and the exhaust bosses on the cylinder head like to rust away...the thin cast iron tabs that hold the exhaust manifolds on....had to replace two sets like that . finally got a good castings from the machine shop and had them fully rebuilt. its a beast though
    Are you sticking with the 2bbl carb or upping to a 4?

    For myself, I am not interested in making more hp than stock. Reason being, I don't want to have to feed it any more than I already have to.

    I heard that there are some decent 2bbl direct replacements out there.

    How much do you think a rebuild kit will cost?
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  12. #12
    Newbie tlivingd's Avatar
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    ford 400

    I had similar problems with my 92k mile E-bay 1977 f-250 with a 400 i picked up about a year ago.

    On mine the EGR adapter under the carburetor rotted out. I ripped that out and rebuilt the carb, fixed all the open vacuum lines and it started and runs like a top now. I also had to replace the fuel tank as it was nearly completely rusted away (rockauto had it for 40 bucks with sending unit)

    It's a torquey engine, but has nothing on the top end. I drove my truck to Madison and back shortly after replacing the fuel tank.
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  13. #13
    Fact or Crap? Al's Avatar
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    Update:
    I went looking for a rebuild kit. Advance Auto Parts had one of two kits in stock. Apparently, there were 6 codes that the rebuild kit works on. I don't know if this means that there were 6 different carbs that year or if the kit works on 6 different years. Either way, the guy at the counter was of no help.

    We looked on the carb for the code, but did not find anything. Any advice on identifying the carb? Pics soon
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  14. #14
    Fact or Crap? Al's Avatar
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    I rebuilt the carb and now it runs well 95% of the time. Simply put, the engine has no power to make it up steep hills in 4th gear.

    It still hesitates at mid-rpm and full throttle. My brother says it is a misfire. Any thoughts?
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  15. #15
    Post whore Coops Brother's Avatar
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    how many miles are on it....jumped timing chain? They had plastic coated gears. I know this as I blew Dad's chain off drag racing.....and was told to fix it. 16 years old...I did it ran. Anyhow, timing was big on those engines, cam and ignition both. Is there coolant in the oil? They were also know to crack the block in the lifter valley, resulting in a slow coolant leak and very goopy oil.

    When you rebuilt the carb did you check the power valve?


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  16. #16
    Fact or Crap? Al's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coops Brother View Post
    how many miles are on it....jumped timing chain? They had plastic coated gears. I know this as I blew Dad's chain off drag racing.....and was told to fix it. 16 years old...I did it ran. Anyhow, timing was big on those engines, cam and ignition both. Is there coolant in the oil? They were also know to crack the block in the lifter valley, resulting in a slow coolant leak and very goopy oil.

    When you rebuilt the carb did you check the power valve?
    No oil in the coolant and no coolant in the oil.

    Power valve? What is that?

    I bought some new wires. the old boots are falling apart. I hope this will take care of the mid-rpm hesitation.


    On a lighter note, I have found a very nice way to drive this truck:
    In 4th at 25-35, you barely need to touch the throttle. When you do, there is obvious torque that the engine spits out.
    When Injustice Becomes Law; Rebellion Becomes Duty

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