Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    Post whore
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Milwaukee
    Posts
    1,394

    Check engine light

    The Aztek's check engine light came on.. Took it to Autozone and had the code pulled -

    P0141
    Heated Oxygen Sensor - Bank 1 - Sensor 2

    Paid $73.00 and got the rear O2 sensor.. Looks like there are 3 total.. 2 up front and 1 in the rear..

    Replaced it and drove the car for about 30 minutes today and the light is still on.. Will it turn off or do I have to get it cleared?

    Does anyone know for certain that Bank 1 - Sensor 2 is the rear one or did I just piss away $73.00?

  2. #2
    A regular know-it-all Tetris Champion Snake Champion Lasagna From Heaven Champion Mac Man Champion Mahjong. Champion Mini Putt 3 Champion Plastic Saucer Champion Ratman Ralph Champion Prince Valiant's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    NW Milwaukee
    Posts
    10,173
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Twigbert View Post
    Does anyone know for certain that Bank 1 - Sensor 2 is the rear one or did I just piss away $73.00?
    well, since it was on an aztek....

    I kid, I kid. I have nothing useful to add to this thread
    1979 Lil' Red Express -Officially the quickest "bolt-on" LRT in the country.
    1989 Shelby CSX #500/500
    The most powerful production Minivan, ever...

    Be sure to check out my weekly adventures on the second page of your Sunday Comics!

  3. #3
    Collecting parts! Waver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Over here
    Posts
    7,375
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Twigbert View Post
    The Aztek's check engine light came on.. Took it to Autozone and had the code pulled -

    P0141
    Heated Oxygen Sensor - Bank 1 - Sensor 2

    Paid $73.00 and got the rear O2 sensor.. Looks like there are 3 total.. 2 up front and 1 in the rear..

    Replaced it and drove the car for about 30 minutes today and the light is still on.. Will it turn off or do I have to get it cleared?

    Does anyone know for certain that Bank 1 - Sensor 2 is the rear one or did I just piss away $73.00?
    Did you get the codes cleared? it should be the rear 02 sensor for that code.
    Quote Originally Posted by HITMAN View Post
    stew - continuing confirmation of the hypothesis that marbles aren't sharp.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cryptic View Post
    Jim you build... break... and rebuild cars faster than I can put one together.

  4. #4
    once you bought the o2's, you should have went back and had them clear the codes or disconnect the battery for like 15 min.

  5. #5
    Post whore
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Milwaukee
    Posts
    1,394
    I thought the code would clear it self after putting in the new part and driving it for a bit..

  6. #6
    Newbie wrencher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    FIP/FIB land
    Posts
    96
    It should self clear if that was indeed the problem. It just will take a few drive cycles to get it to go out on it's own.

  7. #7
    Grandpa Grocery Getter 2.0 wrath's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Waukesha, WI
    Posts
    2,048
    It'll clear after about 20 minutes of closed-loop driving if the problem is gone.
    Buy made in the United States. Otherwise your job might be next. Unless you already wear black shoes and a visor with golden arches on it to work in which case your fellow american has already failed you.

  8. #8
    Ol' School BAD LS1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Slinger
    Posts
    7,886
    Pull the PCM A and possible B fuses, instant light reset. And for the newbs its if its hard code it will take probably 2 or more driving cycles with to check its function and turn the light off on its own if there is no more issues reported. It took 2 errors to make it happen in the first place, which could have took place over a period of time.
    Last edited by BAD LS1; 06-04-2010 at 09:11 AM.
    2012 Cruze ECO M6 - Crystal Red- Just a little more boost than stock!
    2001 Camaro SS - Rallye Red - In process.

  9. #9
    what he said^^ not all codes go away right away some take some time to clear out but as tom said reset it your self
    2001 Trans Am WS6, Race car
    [COLOR="Blue"]2006 Tacoma Xrunner

  10. #10
    Ol' School 70 cutlass 442's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    westside
    Posts
    2,850
    Where ever you bought it from probably wont clear it for you, people were clearing codes and going through emissions, Ive still got that scanner so I could clear it for you, but chances are it will clear itself before you'd even get here
    70 cutlass 442- dads car
    95 stang- Stock long block 195,XXX miles
    03 XC600 - bone stock (still faster then smokin ram)
    03 Polaris predator- 4.250 bore (assembly required)
    84- 4 eyed

  11. #11
    Senior Member..now yer posting! Z06 KID's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Oak Creek
    Posts
    370
    IMO i wuldnt take a check engine light to auto zone. everytime a car comes to my shop they have a printout of several cars on it and it is ALWAYS something with an oxygen sensor. id say take it to a shop and if its like my shop we will scan into it for a code and we dont charge for a scan test unless you have the work done.
    2009 toyota corolla XRS (trade in)
    2012 SWP STI W/nav
    1972 chevrolet nova (dad's, but i found it)

  12. #12
    RIP Dad 4-29-08 brotherbenn83's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Muskego
    Posts
    1,076
    Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC

    • The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.

    • A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.

    • A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.

    • Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.
    GM World Class Certified Technician

  13. #13
    Praise the Lord. Reverend Cooper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    acquiring zombie killing tools.
    Posts
    12,048
    ^ he is absolutely correct,a history code will fail emissions still. clearing witha scan tool is the best bet

    special thanks to: Marv @ C&M performance 262-993-6605

  14. #14
    5.0... It's what's for dinner. GTO RLY?'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    With ze Germans
    Posts
    139
    A drive cycle should never take more than 10-15 minutes. Check this out, it helped me get my EVAP readiness monitor to go, so I could pass their fruity little test, even though I'm confident my V8 is cleaner than 90% of the others out there with my AFRs dead nuts.

    http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html

    05M6 CGM GTO - Svede OTRCAI, Bassani, minus 144lbs, self SD tuned with HPT2.23beta & LC-1

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •