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  1. #1

    No spark from coil?

    Car is a 1969 Toronado that was sitting for ~7yrs.

    I've replaced:

    _| Plugs
    _| Wires
    _| Ignition Coil
    _| Distributor cap (Points were shiny brand new inside, I also found an old point in a bag inside the car, prev. owner must have replaced them, rotor looked newer as well)
    _| Both +/- battery cables. (Positive was corroded all the way thru, was getting very hot during cranking. Cool as a cucumber after replacement.)


    I took off the lead from the distributor cap (going to the ignition coil), put a screwdriver in there and cranked it, saw no spark.

    Tested the resistance from the coil:
    Primary winding (probes on the + & -) sat at '0.1'. (not sure if that is supposed to do that)
    Secondary winding (probe on + & center pole) was roughly '10,200' ohms.
    Coil is also getting 12v from the battery.

    It cranks like a champ at least...

    Any suggestions?
    Last edited by wikked; 05-29-2010 at 04:57 PM.
    _] Jeff
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    _] '98 Eclipse Spyder GS-T
    _] '93 Toyota Camry
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  2. #2
    Put an HEI in it?
    Are the points gapped correctly?

    But if it was me an I was going after it being a cool cruiser, I'd put an HEI in it, any 75-80 Olds V8 one will work. Less to maintain.
    Last edited by Rocket Power; 05-29-2010 at 05:15 PM.
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  3. #3
    HEI would be nice

    It should work as-is though, that is just maddening.
    I just bought a new point set, no difference. They didn't sell point gappers at autozone, oddly enough.

    The point on the car when I got it, was set to the same gap of the original that it replaced.
    I set the new new one to that same gap. :|
    Last edited by wikked; 05-29-2010 at 07:53 PM.
    _] Jeff
    _] '08 Audi A4 S-Line
    _] '98 Eclipse Spyder GS-T
    _] '93 Toyota Camry
    www.flickr.com/photojeffic


  4. #4
    It sounds like Ur harness is bad if I were u I would find a new harness or test the harness with the voltage tester
    Chevy hater

  5. #5
    RTCTTFMF juicedimpss's Avatar
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    since the coil is getting 12v,try jumping the other side to ground. each time you ground the other side of the coil,the spark should jump from the wire off of the tower. if you have spark,there is an issue with points setting or the condenser. if there is no spark the coil would be suspect.
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  6. #6
    Post whore Coops Brother's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wikked View Post
    HEI would be nice

    It should work as-is though, that is just maddening.
    I just bought a new point set, no difference. They didn't sell point gappers at autozone, oddly enough.

    The point on the car when I got it, was set to the same gap of the original that it replaced.
    I set the new new one to that same gap. :|
    the pull tabs on the small pineapple or apple juice cans are the right thickness usually for point settng. 12v i sgood to the coil but if it has high resistance it wont work.ie corroded wiring,corroded push pin. when in doubt run a 12v line from battery to coil temp to see if it runs if it does you have a wiring issue. make sure it is grounding right it grounds threw the distributor,to the manifold so if it was painted or whatnot that can cause a ground issue. hope it helps


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  7. #7
    Post whore Coops Brother's Avatar
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    my guess would be a bad coil tho


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  8. #8
    Picked up a new coil, have spark!
    The firing order was all fucked up as well, corrected that, and bam! she started for a second.

    Pumped a bunch of old gas out, replaced the vac line going to the carb, and now it starts & runs for a few seconds at a time.

    Getting closer!
    _] Jeff
    _] '08 Audi A4 S-Line
    _] '98 Eclipse Spyder GS-T
    _] '93 Toyota Camry
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  9. #9
    Formerly known as Yellow Wagon jbiscuit's Avatar
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    Nice work! Make sure you have fresh gas in it and there isn't a bunch of shit in the fuel filter that got pumped outta the tank. After that if you get the timing close it should idle!
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  10. #10
    I took the carb off, going to attempt a rebuild. There was some sand like gunk in some of the sections on the top cover that didn't seem to affect anything, other than that it wasn't too bad inside, random shells from some bugs stuck in crevices.

    Doesn't seem to be any local places that have the kit for it though

    I did find out it is not the original carb either, it's 7043251, from a '73, neat.
    _] Jeff
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    _] '93 Toyota Camry
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  11. #11
    BCM Cruiser
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    Hey, let me know what speed that 455 finally stops having torque steer at . My latest pipe-dream is cramming a Toro drivetrain into a mid-90's 4dr Cutlass Cierra. Keep your FWD Olds all Olds
    "Kiss me where it smells funny"


  12. #12
    Yea I don't plan on bastardizing it.

    I'm even retrofitting the original Delco relay covers onto new replacements
    _] Jeff
    _] '08 Audi A4 S-Line
    _] '98 Eclipse Spyder GS-T
    _] '93 Toyota Camry
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  13. #13
    A regular know-it-all Tetris Champion Snake Champion Lasagna From Heaven Champion Mac Man Champion Mahjong. Champion Mini Putt 3 Champion Plastic Saucer Champion Ratman Ralph Champion Prince Valiant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wikked View Post
    I took the carb off, going to attempt a rebuild. There was some sand like gunk in some of the sections on the top cover that didn't seem to affect anything, other than that it wasn't too bad inside, random shells from some bugs stuck in crevices.

    Doesn't seem to be any local places that have the kit for it though

    I did find out it is not the original carb either, it's 7043251, from a '73, neat.
    It's a quadrajet, correct? Advanced auto/NAPA/autozone should be able to get a kit in the next day or so. Jim did a rebuild for me, turned out great using that kit...

    can't wait to see this move under it's own power
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  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Prince Valiant View Post
    It's a quadrajet, correct? Advanced auto/NAPA/autozone should be able to get a kit in the next day or so. Jim did a rebuild for me, turned out great using that kit...

    can't wait to see this move under it's own power
    Yepper it's a Quadrajet.
    I ended up getting it from RockAuto, and rebuilt it myself. It was way easier than I expected. I did have the float needle stick the first time, but it's all good now.
    The choke arm lever decided to stop working though, it'll open, but not close now... eh, no biggie.

    I had it running for as long as I wanted it to, until the exhaust fumes in the garage choked me out
    Then I saw the puddle of growing coolant under the car... the water pump took a shit. I'm putting the new one in tomrorow/today.

    Then maybe I get in it and attempt to pull it out into the driveway

    Baby steps...
    _] Jeff
    _] '08 Audi A4 S-Line
    _] '98 Eclipse Spyder GS-T
    _] '93 Toyota Camry
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  15. #15
    BCM Cruiser
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    Aside from the Hurst olds, the Toro motors made the most power. I had never actually saw a pre-70 toro in person until the All-Oldsmobile show last weekend. I'de love to try some e-brake burners with one!
    "Kiss me where it smells funny"


  16. #16
    I was hoping to see one at Automotion in the Dells, walked down every aisle in the car show, and not a single one.
    I don't think anyone wants them because they're FWD
    _] Jeff
    _] '08 Audi A4 S-Line
    _] '98 Eclipse Spyder GS-T
    _] '93 Toyota Camry
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  17. #17
    BCM Cruiser
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    Quote Originally Posted by wikked View Post
    I was hoping to see one at Automotion in the Dells, walked down every aisle in the car show, and not a single one.
    I don't think anyone wants them because they're FWD
    Ya but they're FWD with a turbo 400 and a Big Block......who doesn't want that?! :-) Toro's are awesome.....I'm curious as to how much power you can build those chain drive TH400's to hold up to :-) a super snotty one would be awesome to see!
    "Kiss me where it smells funny"


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