2000 F-body Clutch, not fully releasing

[SSmike1]

Why would my Clutch not release fully,
even with the pedal to the floor.

the Clutch still does not completely Grab until the pedal is almost all the way out.

But even with the pedal to the floor, there is still a small Drag on the clutch and tranny, that i can not get it into first gear at a stop.

HELP?

did my Clutch Plate Swell up from when I bleed my Clutch-Slave a few weeks ago? and got Dot-3 Brake fluid on my clucth disk?

[Reverend Cooper]

why did you bleed it,if you pump the pedal does it release then,sounds like it needs a clutch master and or slave as well,its either bypassing or leaking.jmo

[Yooformula]

sounds like the master. is it a stock one?

[GTSLOW]

I'd get one of those tick adjustable and be done with it.

[SSmike1]

I replaced everything in 2004,
with a MCLEOD adjustable Master/Slave cylinders.
also, did the Drill mod to the line, and
installed a LS6 Clutch and Pressure plate in 2004.

Tom wrote to me and said, there is air in the line.

I'll go try to Bleed it, and let ya ll know.
THANKS for the help.
...

[Yooformula]

now that you posted that its a mcleod.......it might be due for a rebuild if you cant bleed the air out! They actually discontinued that model and upgraded to what was supposed to be more reliable and equivalent to the Tick master. That pipe dream failed and now they no longer make them but if you call 714-630-3668 or 714-630-2764, you can order a rebuild kit for it free of charge which includes a new rubber cup which is what usually fails in their master causing the air in the line.

[SSmike1]

i just Bled it,
no difference.
so you think it is the Master Mcleod i bought in 2004????
thanks for the advice, i need it.
yo, will you PM me your phone number?

now that you posted that its a mcleod.......it might be due for a rebuild if you cant bleed the air out! They actually discontinued that model and upgraded to what was supposed to be more reliable and equivalent to the Tick master. That pipe dream failed and now they no longer make them but if you call 714-630-3668 or 714-630-2764, you can order a rebuild kit for it free of charge which includes a new rubber cup which is what usually fails in their master causing the air in the line.

[GTSLOW]

Mike for the last time fix it right and get it over with. A 6 year old Mcload MC would defiantly lead me to believe its the culprit. There's guys that have had them rebuilt after only 10k miles and I know you've driven the hell out of yours.





http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...aulics/#master

[Yooformula]

the Tick unit is the way to go! costly but no more premature clutch failures or bs bleeding all the damm time.

[wrencher]

I had a McLeod for years. It worked but I found out it was high maintenance.
It would do exactly what yours is doing Mike.
I would have to rebuild it just about every year. But I'd catch it early it would start getting problematic when the car was cold, I knew it was rebuild time.

The first time I got the Mcleod rebuild kit. Might as well, it comes with the pucks, piston/o-rings, spring & boot. After that I just got new 13/16ths pucks from the parts store for a wheel cylinder. That's all they are anyway.

They are real easy to rebuild, the hard part is the removal & replacement.
Get a wheel cylinder hone & some brake parts cleaner.
Disassemble it & clean it with the brake cleaner.
Hone the bore out with the WC hone lightly wet with clean brake fluid.
(the bore is kinda soft good to hone wet)
Re-clean with brake cleaner well.

You can then reassemble it with the parts soaked in brake fluid, or very lightly coat them with some SIL-GLYDE.
Then bench bleed it some with the line installed by depressing the check fitting @ the line on the slave end.
Then install it & bleed the whole system.

Many years of bleeding these cars & trucks with concentric slaves, I have been forced to learn the best methods.
The concentric slave set-up are a pain sometimes.
The ford TSB method seems to work well for manual bleeding if you dont have a pressure bleeder or a vacuum bleeder.

It is alot easier to bleed also if you have a remote bleeder but that has to be installed to the slave w/ the trans out.

Anyway, when you get to the end of bleeding the clutch. Once you have a decent pedal, do this the last few bleeding cycles;
Open the bleeder, pedal up, have your helper push the pedal down & close the bleeder mid- fluid-stream. Do that a few times & make sure you keep the fluid up in the reservoir during the whole process.

Then just keep the fluid clean with bleeding/flushes & it will last long as possible.

[GTSLOW]

Another thing to note is when we bled/fresh fluid on his clutch. Not only was it black like usual but there was alot of small black particles and chunks. I'm assuming this was the O-ring on the MC. So when he pushes the clutch pedal in he's not getting full disengagement as fluid is getting by.

[Yooformula]

if you opt to rebuild it Mike, order the kit from mcleod. it will also come with the spring that is probably due for a replacement anyway. the black chunks are from the rubber puck.

[GTSLOW]

^ I bet mikes looks just like that if not worse!

[wrencher]

Black chunks are going to be constant with the McLeod
I have had the Tick master in there for almost 2 years it seems, holding up great!
I have only flushed it once doesn't seem to have the fluid get dirty as often.

The adjustment is also important with both aftermarket masters.
The stocker is a 3/4 (19mm) bore. The McLeod is a 13/16ths bore.
Then the Tick is a 7/8ths bore. A lot more volume there.

[GTSLOW]

I'm trying to talk mike into either a tick setup w/ remote bleeder or one of there complete clutch kits with the monster stage 2.

[wrencher]

The monster's are nice but pricey...
They have some good feedback out there though.
I have been running the McLeod twin disc for 6 years. No problems.
They're real pricey too
More 6K clutch dumps on slicks than I can count though lol.

[Yooformula]

the one thing I always like about the mcleod clutches is how cheap they will rebuild it for you!

[GTSLOW]

The monster's are nice but pricey...
They have some good feedback out there though.
I have been running the McLeod twin disc for 6 years. No problems.
They're real pricey too
More 6K clutch dumps on slicks than I can count though lol.

I haven't shopped for a clutch in a while but Tick offers a complete kit for $1,050 shipped. That's the tick master, line, bleeder, slave, bearings, monster flywheel, pp, disk, and alignment tool. Seems like a good deal to me, but then again it's not my money either.

[BAD LS1]

The monster's are nice but pricey...
They have some good feedback out there though.
I have been running the McLeod twin disc for 6 years. No problems.
They're real pricey too
More 6K clutch dumps on slicks than I can count though lol.

lol i had a Mcleod RST twin in my old car, lasted me 1k miles, and the new owner got 100 more on it and promptly finished it off. Same with the spec street twin, only diff was the mcleod was nice to drive before it started slipping

[SSmike1]

THANK YOU ALL, for the Help!

i really appreciate it. BCM rocks with all the help and advice!!!!!!!!

thanks guys!