Dont tell all the jeep guys with disc brake rears they cant run spools without clips, there all gonna have to come home from there trip this weekend!
Dont tell all the jeep guys with disc brake rears they cant run spools without clips, there all gonna have to come home from there trip this weekend!
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I am taking a stab here... I think he means that with a strong limited slip or spool and a sticky tire, the added stress to the chassis through the energy presented/transfered, will add stress to the body as a whole. Everyone that knows mustangs know where they "rip and tear". So... if you are making big enough power to need a spool, you might want to reinforce the areas that need it. Ie... torque boxes, subframe connectors...
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After 27 years of wrenching I have a fair bit of experience.
Pull the rear c-clips, if you have rear disc you will "have to" remove the wheels and calipers or the axle will not go in far enough to disengage the c-clip from its broached slot in the carrier, assuming you pulled the crosspin already. Now assemble everything and the rear calipers on the anchoring plate, rotors in place. now try and pull the rear wheel/axle out, nope your right it cant come out. The caliper is mounted to the anchoring plate "inboard", the rotor is now fully captured within the caliper. The only way the axle can walk out is if the rotor was broken 360* or the caliper was broken cleanly in half. Its not the cool NHRA 150mph thing to do but it's done quite often.
A drum brake obviously will not capture the axle/wheel, plenty of great u-tube videos out there. Jack a drum brake car up and slide the wheel in/out, a lot of play. Now try that with a disc brake RWD car, little no no movement at all. Calipers slide inboard for a reason, they wont sail off with a broken axle. How many times have we all bitched when replacing a rotor on a late model, most you even have to remove the anchoring plate as it is mounted for/aft the inboard and outboard side of the rotor, the large loctited anchoring brackets are loctited ia PITA . I'll look at my setup but I think the Ford 8.8 anchoring bracket does not hold the rotor, just the caliper. Buss's and disc brake class 8 trucks go even further and have a huge 1/2 circle cast iron bracket for break away safety.
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Here is a 8.8 I narrowed, just anchoring plates no calipers:
Now picture the caliper bolted inboard the bracket with its outboard pad side on other side of the rotor, capturing the rotor/axle. This is why you cant shortcut a ring/pinion swap on a disc vehicle at the same time, loose shoes will let a drum rear get jammed in to release the c-clips but a caliper rear doesnt have the travel to push axle in that far to drop the c-clip.
With the speeds and ETs I will be running I will have to run c-clip eliminators but if the rules didnt require it I would probably not but Im a cheap @$$
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With just the caliper holding the axle in ,won't it always be rubbing rotor on pad trying to get out?
Doesn't seem like a good/safe idea too me, but my fun car has bolt in axles no c-clips for me .
Jamie
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Russ, I understand what you are saying about the axle retention with the brake setup. What I still dont understand is how you use c clips with a spool? Where do you put the c clips? How do you put the clips in the groove on the axle? You simply can not run a c-clip with a spool. There is no access to the ends of the axles once they are in the spool.
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OK, now it makes sense. I thought you were talking about the c-clips themselves, not the eliminators.
What do chassis reinforcements have to do with running a limited slip or a spool?[/quote]
Since its one to one and it cant compensate it has to drag the outer wheel. Where is that pull going to go? Its going to go to the LC and upper control arm on that side. Now its hard to find a good stang without cracked TQ boxes with just a 302 HO making 225 HP. With a sticky tire and a spool its going to pull the hell out of the mount to the body since the mounts are weak as fack from the factory since its just sheetmetal.
I have ran a spool....Even with axles on the street you want to mark a centerline down the axle so you can check them time to time. Even with good axles I twisted my 28 spline Mosers on a 8.2 10 bolt GM after 3 years of streetdriving with drag radials. I know for a fact it wasnt the motor I had in it....Lotta stress going on back there when making a turn with sticky tires.
Spooling a fox I would definitly tell U to run a set of battleboxes and subframes at the least to stiffen things up. Even if its got a weaker motor. Thats a lot of pulling when your making a turn.
Last edited by Sprayaway Fox; 06-28-2009 at 04:41 PM.
If a hammer,crescent wrench,duct tape, or JB Weld can't fix it........Its gotta be a electrical problem
russ,as much as you "can" do it your way,I don't consider it as the right way.To me,something like that would be a temporary fix,on the side of a trail.I would never feel ok about telling someone to do that with a drag race car that will see big MPH.
my .02
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For a street strip 8.8 setup I would recommend 31 spline Strange Axles, ARP wheel studs, Detroit Locker, and 9" housing ends. Call Strange directly and order everything from them
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604BBF/TH400/Radials
^^ Sounds expensive, I may have to wait to get all the options I want.
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2000 Civic