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  1. #1

    Help will not start, 4.6 2V

    Story:

    1996 Thunderbird 4.6 / Same as a 96-98 Mustang GT

    I had the AED kit (supercharger Eaton M90) on the car last fall and removed the whole system. I decided to return the car to stock. I finished putting everything back together last week and seem to be running into a problem.

    She will crank over but not start, I have electrical everything, with my battery is fully charged with 12.3 volts.

    I'm really not sure what is going on here. My Dad is telling me the alternator could be shot, but even if the alt was bad would that stop the car from starting?

    I've tested three EEC's that I have laying around, the new one today was doing the same deal so I know it's not a bad EEC.

    All the pulleys where "cranking over" and moving so I know that the engine is not seized and the starter is doing it's job.

    We also checked the engine harness-coil plugs that connect to the coils and they are reading 12.2 volts in the middle wires with the key on, that's a correct reading?

    I checked all my grounds over and over again, every thing seems to check out, the car is really clean.

    I have new spark plugs, wires, coils, fuel filter, air filter, EGR sensor.

    I believe that this might be a ignition problem, I had my Dad crank her over and I saw no arc with the plug wire and coil.

    I'm about ready to give up and have it towed to a near by shop at the end of the week if I can't figure this thing out. If you guys have any more suggestions let me know.

    Thank you,

    Josh
    -Josh

    Tork Tech Thunderbird

    God Bless the men & women who have served and serving to keep us free

  2. #2
    does it crank strong josh? make sure it has spark, might be a fuel issue?
    -Kyle

    2006 F350 6.0 CCLB DRW Lariat
    Gearhead, Holders Diesel, Retro Solutions, Pure Diesel Power, Screamin Eagle, Spyder Industries, Recon, Dirty Diesels
    KCCO!

  3. #3
    is there gas in it?

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  4. #4
    forgot to add, fuel rails have 40 psi, I can hear the pump prime when I turn the key so not a fuel issue I would think.
    -Josh

    Tork Tech Thunderbird

    God Bless the men & women who have served and serving to keep us free

  5. #5
    did you plug your coil packs back in? I have spares if you want to try those.

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  6. #6
    Coils are brand new
    -Josh

    Tork Tech Thunderbird

    God Bless the men & women who have served and serving to keep us free

  7. #7
    check the crank position sensor, only other thing i really can think of
    -Kyle

    2006 F350 6.0 CCLB DRW Lariat
    Gearhead, Holders Diesel, Retro Solutions, Pure Diesel Power, Screamin Eagle, Spyder Industries, Recon, Dirty Diesels
    KCCO!

  8. #8
    put the AED kit back on. problem solved. sorry I have nothing else to add.

    free bump?

  9. #9
    what about the TPS josh?
    -Kyle

    2006 F350 6.0 CCLB DRW Lariat
    Gearhead, Holders Diesel, Retro Solutions, Pure Diesel Power, Screamin Eagle, Spyder Industries, Recon, Dirty Diesels
    KCCO!

  10. #10
    SET ON SAFE! Sprayaway Fox's Avatar
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    Do those things have a ignition control module? When you hit the key to the run (before crank)position do you have a check engine light? Then ya know your Engine computer is at least turning on. Sorry dont know alot about the mod stuff just trying to throw some ideas out there.
    If a hammer,crescent wrench,duct tape, or JB Weld can't fix it........Its gotta be a electrical problem

  11. #11
    In '96 with OBD-II they eliminated the EDIS module and integrated the ignition control with the eec. Pull the codes. If it's the Crank position sensor it should show that. It does sound like the likely culprit.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Yeehaw View Post
    check the crank position sensor, only other thing i really can think of
    It looks to be in good shape, I have not checked it with a multimeter, maybe it's bad I don't know.

    Quote Originally Posted by Yeehaw View Post
    what about the TPS josh?
    TPS is reading fine

    Quote Originally Posted by DurtyKurty View Post
    In '96 with OBD-II they eliminated the EDIS module and integrated the ignition control with the eec. Pull the codes. If it's the Crank position sensor it should show that. It does sound like the likely culprit.
    The only code that is popping up is the P1000, OBII not complete
    -Josh

    Tork Tech Thunderbird

    God Bless the men & women who have served and serving to keep us free

  13. #13
    Check for spark and injector pulse with a noid light, should have both or nothing depending on crank position status, no way to tell if its good or bad by looking at it.

  14. #14
    Praise the Lord. Reverend Cooper's Avatar
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    did you remove the eec at all? is is not plugged in all the way,do you have all the grounds connected for the ecc or to the motor? if its in glendale still josh i could stop by after work.

    special thanks to: Marv @ C&M performance 262-993-6605

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Windsors 03 Cobra View Post
    Check for spark and injector pulse with a noid light, should have both or nothing depending on crank position status, no way to tell if its good or bad by looking at it.
    I know I don't have spark at the coils, but I'm reading 12 volts at the harness-coil pug that connects to the coils.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy MF'ng Johnson! View Post
    did you remove the eec at all? is is not plugged in all the way,do you have all the grounds connected for the ecc or to the motor? if its in glendale still josh i could stop by after work.
    So far I've tried 3 EECs. I just bought a new one a couple days ago thinking that the other two where bad, but I've crossed that off now that I have the smae deal. Nope the car sits at my parents house in Racine.

    Thanks for the reply guys, I've been doing alot of research on the problem over on the TCCoA boards, alot of thread reading on the matter. Lets say the crank sensor blew and it's shot, will that prevent the car from starting? That's the only thing I have not checked with a multimeter. Any one know how many volts it needs to read to be good?
    -Josh

    Tork Tech Thunderbird

    God Bless the men & women who have served and serving to keep us free

  16. #16
    The Crank Postion Sensor puts out AC Voltage. So make sure to set your multimeter to the lowest AC setting. There are only two wires. Put a probe on each one and if memory servers me correctly it should be about 1.5 volts.

    And yes, if it's bad it would prevent your engine from starting.

  17. #17
    I have good news and bad news.

    The good news I got the car running, the problem was a short in the wiring some where causing no spark. I simply swapped over another engine harness and vroom-vroom.

    The bad news is ether the intake manifold is cracked or the gaskets are not sealing to the heads cause there is a big leak in the back near cylinder 8.

    I'm relieved that I got the car started and running. I really don't mind swapping over another manifold or gaskets whichever the case may be. Thanks for all the help guys, I do appreciate it very much, there is always help on BCM.
    -Josh

    Tork Tech Thunderbird

    God Bless the men & women who have served and serving to keep us free

  18. #18
    Well thats good and the bad is expected, does that have the crappy plastic intake ? If so what a load of crap. Hope you got a bad gasket.
    Nice work on that engine harness swap.

  19. #19
    I got a used alum cross over NPI manifold from another T-bird, yeah I hope it's the gasket too. I'll find out on Friday. I busted up some of my knuckles just to get the harness on. That was a hour and a half bitch for sure.
    -Josh

    Tork Tech Thunderbird

    God Bless the men & women who have served and serving to keep us free

  20. #20
    Ol' School 70 cutlass 442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OxmanWI View Post
    I have good news and bad news.

    The good news I got the car running, the problem was a short in the wiring some where causing no spark. I simply swapped over another engine harness and vroom-vroom.

    The bad news is ether the intake manifold is cracked or the gaskets are not sealing to the heads cause there is a big leak in the back near cylinder 8.

    I'm relieved that I got the car started and running. I really don't mind swapping over another manifold or gaskets whichever the case may be. Thanks for all the help guys, I do appreciate it very much, there is always help on BCM.

    If you go through the troubles of doing this, I reccomend buying the PI style intake, they are very cost effective (under $200) and they make a a huge difference!!
    70 cutlass 442- dads car
    95 stang- Stock long block 195,XXX miles
    03 XC600 - bone stock (still faster then smokin ram)
    03 Polaris predator- 4.250 bore (assembly required)
    84- 4 eyed

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