Just wondering at what HP or ET range you split it open at??? ive seen guys go years in the 9.80s and faster with just a main girdle....
Just wondering at what HP or ET range you split it open at??? ive seen guys go years in the 9.80s and faster with just a main girdle....
70 cutlass 442- dads car
95 stang- Stock long block 195,XXX miles
03 XC600 - bone stock (still faster then smokin ram)
03 Polaris predator- 4.250 bore (assembly required)
84- 4 eyed
This is a pretty common debate. Most believe that the main girdle does nothing but hold the 2 halves together once it splits.
Generally, it is said that 500rwhp is the magic number, from what Ive seen. I went with a Dart block, so I have no worries, lol.
My bud split his with a E303 on some GT40 iron heads NA. Granted he drove it a lot and was a SCCA car but took the timing cover off and it fell in 2 pieces....It stil ran though just had a hella shake to it.
Then he went a E 303 aluminum headed GT 40 crate on a Novi 2000 and it didnt split with the same poundage on it.
I bought a topend girdle....Looking at it I dont believe it does nothing. The bolts that go in the block after you tap them are smaller then a penwith diameter. I have seen a guy take a bar and actually weld across the valley for strength His stuff is still running, but havent talked to him in a while. Also as Badass stated 500 is the rule of thumb. High RPM makes them walk around a lil bit.
If a hammer,crescent wrench,duct tape, or JB Weld can't fix it........Its gotta be a electrical problem
The Valley Girdle may be the biggest SB Ford scam yet....
The ones I used to split were in the 600-650 FWHP range, they would last a while, but once they had any detonation or too much rpm is when I had issues...
When I shifted at 6,000-6,200 and kept the timing out of them, they lasted very long (mid/low 10's)
The intake is the only valley girdle that matters
I can say i got scammed everybody is looking for that magic cure for the roller SBF's and there isnt one besides going with a aftamarket block like Badass said.
The guys welded one looks like it will stay together (but you have to put the block in a oven to cook it all the oil etc. off) but thats a lil more serious than I would go.
Last edited by Sprayaway Fox; 01-27-2009 at 12:15 PM.
If a hammer,crescent wrench,duct tape, or JB Weld can't fix it........Its gotta be a electrical problem
His "theory" sounded real intracite and all but I just went with it cause after 20 minutes of explaining it,you tend to go with whatever someone says.
Seriously if I tried to explain it it would take half the page up. lol
If a hammer,crescent wrench,duct tape, or JB Weld can't fix it........Its gotta be a electrical problem
Salesmanship. Some people can sell an icemaker to an Eskimo.
I have been told that at anything above the 600 mark will give you problems, but even when you start get close to this number it depends on how the power is applied, the year of the block, condition, and block prep. That’s my two cents take it or leave it.
Well it sounds like i will be pushing it on the gun... the cam and intake pkg will require me to zing that thing to about 7500 rpm but thats to much from the sounds of it.... I mite just have to build a lighter car.
70 cutlass 442- dads car
95 stang- Stock long block 195,XXX miles
03 XC600 - bone stock (still faster then smokin ram)
03 Polaris predator- 4.250 bore (assembly required)
84- 4 eyed
Are you planning on going with an internal balance on the rotating assembly? Are they lightwieght componants? That will help a bit.
I was pondering about this problem (i know i should not) and came up with a new question:
Is it just an HP limit, or is it torque or RPM?
When Injustice Becomes Law; Rebellion Becomes Duty
The problem is crank walk. It's from a lack of material in the main webs and small 2-bolt caps on and in the light weight production block. A dart block is 50lbs heavier then a roller block.
My Dart block has a beefier design with more casting. If you run a earlier non roller block they are stronger. Roller blocks split rite up the middle. If RPM's dont get to high they can live for a decent while. High R's make things shift around a lil.
If a hammer,crescent wrench,duct tape, or JB Weld can't fix it........Its gotta be a electrical problem