Help *ASAP*

[Z28Envy]

About a year ago I had the intake gasket and the thermostat changed on my 98 Grand Am 3.1. After that the car always ran a little cooler and the heat didn't get as hot. I figured it was just the new thermostat was off. I drove home from work this morning and it was normal. I got home and then remembered I needed somethings from WalMart so I put my coat and shoes back on and headed there. Got a ways downtown and noticed that the dash lights were kinda dim. I thought maybe the battery was going dead but there wasn't any volt light on. I got to WalMart and the power steering was a little hard. I got out and popped the hood and there was coolant all over the belt and the belt must have been slipping causing it to not charge as well. There temp gauge never showed it was getting hot at all. I didn't have a flash light with me so I just closed the hood and was just going to check it when I got home. Got the crap I needed and started for home. The car was still at normal operating temp even a little lower because it sat for a little bit. I noticed right away the even though the car was warmed up the heat was blowing cold. Then the car started to get hot and gauge went up right away. I ended up having to pull over several times and shut it off so it didn't over heat. I got it home and there is coolant all over. Do you think this might be just the thermostat or water pump? Need to get it fixed asap as this is my only car right now and I am not taking the camaro out of the garage. I wouldn't even get it out of my parking lot anyway.

[Z28Envy]

Well it was easier to figure out than I thought. I went out and poured coolant in and I could hear it leaking out so shined flash light on the water pump and it was leaking right out. So now how hard are they to change on one of these? Never did a waterpump before. I see that the power steering pulley has to come off. Any tips on making it a faster job?

[Poncho]

Simple, really simple to do. easy spot to get at, and quick and easy fix.

it's been a while, but unless the PS pulley just unbolts, I didn't need any special tools to do the job.

[Windsors 03 Cobra]

No doubt that PS pump comes right off with removing 3 bolts through the pulley and then the water pump is real gravy like.

[A B4C Z]

No need to take the power steering off.....leave the belt on crack the 4 10mm bolts loose on the water pump pulley take the belt off put a peice of wood on a jack and jack the motor up disconnect the motor mount . There will be 6 i belive 8mm bolts holding the water pump on then. Take them off and clean the gasket off and back together it goes.

[Z28Envy]

Thanks for all the advice. I got the pump in and it was pretty easy to do. Didn't need to jack up the motor but probably would have made it go a little faster. The old gasket was shot. Got it all put back together and I filled the radiator until it stoped in the resivour tank than started it up. The coolant light stayed on and there wasn't anymore coolant going into the radiator. Air wasn't bubbling out either so I back the car out of the garage to park in the driveway. The driveway is slated pretty good but that didn't help. The car took a little while to get warm but then it got hot real fast. I shut it off and then went and looked at the resivour and it was still pretty much the same and did pull anymore coolant in. I started the car again and let it run for a bit and checked the temp and it was down below normal temp and stayed there. Pretty sure the t-stat isn't working right and is stuck open now. The air from the heater was blowing cold/little warm. The coolant light stayed on the whole time but it was drawing any coolant into the radiator.

Going to change the t-stat in the morning. All the parts stores were closed and I needed to get to work. Any other suggestions?

[spooln30]

those t-stats are a pain if you have big hands.

[Z28Envy]

I see it is in a shitty spot. The t-stat was just changed about a year and a half ago when the intake gasket went bad.

Is there any other way to bleed the system besides take the reservoir cap off? There ins't a normal radiator cap on the radiator. Is there somewhere else that can be opened up to help bleed air out?

[lilws6]

i believe the 3.1 has a bleeder screw you have to warm it up and shut it off and crack it loose if i remember correct i'll see what i can dig up

[lilws6]

I duno if this helps but it confirms there are bleeder screws check on the t stat housing

You can try bleeding the entire system by using that one bleeder but not sure if all air will come out. Locate the low coolant level sensor on the right side of the radiator...it looks like a little map sensor with a connector going to it. Tap on it lightly with a screwdriver handle to "free the float inside". If the coolant level got low sometimes that float will stick in the down position and tapping on it will free it up. Here is where that sensor is located and if tapping doesn't work replace and you should be good to go.

Coolant Level Indicator Module Replacement

Removal Procedure

Notice: When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL® coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to
Caution: Unless directed otherwise, the ignition and start switch must be in the OFF or LOCK position, and all electrical loads must be OFF before servicing any electrical component. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent an electrical spark should a tool or equipment come in contact with an exposed electrical terminal. Failure to follow these precautions may result in personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.

in General Information.
Partially drain the coolant from the radiator. Refer to Cooling System Draining and Filling .
Images available only to Customers.




Disconnect the electrical connector from the module.
Images available only to Customers.




Remove the module. In order to unlock the module, lift one leg of the snap clip from the clip's locked position. Pull the module outward with a slight twisting motion.
Inspect the condition of the module o-ring seal.

Installation Procedure


Images available only to Customers.



Lubricate the o-ring seal of the module with coolant.
Images available only to Customers.




Position the snap clip leg into place.
Install the indicator module to the radiator.
Images available only to Customers.




Connect the electrical connector to the module.
Refill the coolant. Refer to Cooling System Draining and Filling .
Connect the negative battery cable.
Tighten
Tighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 N·m (11 lb ft).

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Start the engine. After the engine reaches normal operating temperature, check for coolant leaks.

[Z28Envy]

Thanks for the info!! I will check all that tomorrow!!

[lilws6]

that was on a 3.4 but i think there almost the same. they had to put those valves in becaise the tstats are higher then the radiator caps so you won't et all the air out of the cap.

[Z28Envy]

I will have to check and see if there is a bleeder on the t-stat housing. I don't remember seeing it but it sits back under the throttle body and air intake tube. If there is air in the system will that make the t-stat act like that?

[Poncho]

Yea, if that t-stat is stuck, you'll be pulling off the upper intake manifold, but don't worry, it's a easy job.

[Z28Envy]

I don't think it will be stuck being that it was just replaced about a year and a half ago but the ways things are going with it it wouldn't suprise me.

[Windsors 03 Cobra]

That little stand pipe 2" toward the driver side from the water pump with the tiny little screw on top that thread into a bigger plug is your bleeder, get it hot and open it, lit it piss till it don't look airy. You gotta warm it enough for the T-Stat to open or you will never get that air pocket out.

[Z28Envy]

That little stand pipe 2" toward the driver side from the water pump with the tiny little screw on top that thread into a bigger plug is your bleeder, get it hot and open it, lit it piss till it don't look airy. You gotta warm it enough for the T-Stat to open or you will never get that air pocket out.

Just got done putting it in. I figured that was the bleeder and did open it up. Cooling system seems to be working good now. Heat gets very hot and the temp stays nice steady. Now the only things is it idles funny now when you have the car in park. Doesn't do it in drive at all. I kinda sounds like a cam lope. Kinda can here like an air sucking sound as well. If a head gasket is bad would it make a sound like that? Kinda sounds like where it is coming from.

I did take of the throttle body to get the t-stat out easier. The throttle body was very dirty on the blade so I cleaned it with some sea foam deep creep. Everything is back together right. Could maybe it be the iac? Like I said it only idles funny when i park.

[Windsors 03 Cobra]

You got a vacuum leak somewhere, track down that hissing sound. Probably somewhere around the T-Body hopefully a vacuum line.

[BAD LS1]

wait till you gotta do intake gaskets! I did a set on a 03' GAGT, was kinda gay if u never done one before, love the diff length pushrods too that go through the gaskets wtf??

[Z28Envy]

Intake gasket was done about 2 years ago so hopefully won't be a problem for awhile. I can't seem to find and sort of vacuum leak. That is what I thought it was too. Like I said before it sounds like its coming from the head but I also changed the oil today and the oil didn't have any coolant in it also the coolant didn't have any oil when I did the water pump or the t-stat. I don't smell any antifreeze coming out the exhaust so I am not sure what it is. Could one of the sensors have gone bad on the throttle body when I removed it?

The car runs good driving. It idles fine until you put it in park then it "lopes". What is the best way to find a vacuum leak? I don't remember messing with any vacuum lines at all.