Mild setup-what do you guys predict

[jersyboyy]

cam and crank gears wernt aligned!!! DOH, could ahve been BAD but after tearing it all down again and fixing it I did NOT bend any valves or anything. I proceeded to reset the distributor and SOUNDS LIKE A BEAST!
I just now have to set the throttle, and kickdown cable up, put the ypipe on it and get it welded and I should have this thing running at the track after my 500 mile break in!

Ill post my crappy camera phone video up in a bit

[Racer X79]

Good luck with the build, nice to hear about a third gen. After having trouble on the first fire up with the flat tappet cam, be sure to run a high zinc content oil(shell rotella t-diesel oil for example), or zinc additive, so you don't smoke the lobes on the cam. Time/horsepower wise I'm thinking low 15's to high 14's in the 1/4 and around 250 hp at the rear tires. The 3.08 open is gonna kill you no matter what, you definitely need more gear and a posi. If your strapped for cash, try out a $80 ish mini spool and at least get the peg leg taken care of. Once you get 3.73-4.11 gears and sticky tires you'll be mid 13's easy.

[jersyboyy]

Rotella t and stp 4cycle oil treatment has more than enough zinc to break in the flat tappet cam. Only thing is its not cheap, you have to drain and fill the oil aftr the first 30 min break in period then again at 500 miles.
Build went pretty good it sounds mean I just have some small things to put back together to get her driving around but im very happy.
Im going to save up for a hp posi carrier and 373's for the extra rear I have sitting in the garage.

[jersyboyy]

Videos on streetfire.net

<a href="http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Camaro-with-new-parts-up_178939.htm"><img src="http://px2.sfstatic.com/handlers/GetSizedVideoThumb.ashx?id=178939&w=180"/><br>Camaro with new parts just started up. </a>

<a href="http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Camaro-running-part-2_178940.htm"><img src="http://px2.sfstatic.com/handlers/GetSizedVideoThumb.ashx?id=178940&w=180"/><br>Camaro running part 2</a>

[Prince Valiant]

sounds good dude...get it running on the street with a healthy break-in, and get to the track for some slips!

[jersyboyy]

I wish I could but after 2k rpms it backfires from the carb & loses power. I cant get it running on the street properlly. I was thinking a worm cam lobe but all the rocker arms move like they shoul(visual inspection with the valve covers off). Could my valve lash be WAY too tight since I just bolted the rockers down and didnt really know how to adjust them other than making sure they were tight? or is that another problem in it self?

[BadAzzGTA89]

Could my valve lash be WAY too tight since I just bolted the rockers down and didnt really know how to adjust them other than making sure they were tight? or is that another problem in it self?

I think that could be the problem!
BTW the car is looking good.

[jersyboyy]

Alrite well im going to loosen them al lup and run the motor and tighten them untill it stops clattering then give iti an extra 1/2 turn(just read how to do that now). Could this have bent a valve, I mean it could but wouldnt I hear that or no?


Thanks, its been alot of work but its FAR from looking as good as your car.

*update* I loosened them all up, car wouldnt start i started tightening them up and eventually it started. I began to tighten th rockers that looked really loose and then it started idling better. I took it around the block and it seem that helped a lot but still not right on. I also need to get my kickdown connected properlly.

[Prince Valiant]

The best way to adjust these things easily is to pull the intake off (I know...a bear) and physically SEE the lifters. This works best when assembling the engine.

The ones where the lifter is on the base circle, start to tighten down the rocker arm. As you do this, move the pushrod up and down. When you can know longer move the pushrod up/down, turn the rocker nut ~ 1 1/2 turns more to set the pre-load. Do as many as you can then rotate the engine a 1/4 turn and do whichever lifters are on the base circle of the cam (they'll appear flush with the block). Continue until there is no free-play in any pushrod when the lifter is on it's base circle...shouldn't take more than 2 turns of the engine to get through them all.

Otherwise, there is a fairly simple way to do it that I can think of...get the engine to TDC on the compression stroke. The number 1 intake and exhaust valve should be closed. Use pretty much the same way to tighten the rocker arm as I said...then move the engine a 1/4 (using a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer crank bolt) turn and follow the next in the firing order (not sure what it is on a chevy)...do that and another 1/4 turn...again, two revolutions of the engine and that'll get you through all 8. Not sure if that's the easiest way, but that's how I'd probably approach it. Should also be some tutorials on the web too...

[juicedimpss]

I wish I could but after 2k rpms it backfires from the carb & loses power. I cant get it running on the street properlly. I was thinking a worm cam lobe but all the rocker arms move like they shoul(visual inspection with the valve covers off). Could my valve lash be WAY too tight since I just bolted the rockers down and didnt really know how to adjust them other than making sure they were tight? or is that another problem in it self?

get someone over there to help you!
that is one of THE most important things to keeping a flat tappet cam from going flat.

[jersyboyy]

I will be taking the valve covers off tommorow and rechecking the rocker arms.

Turn the motor with a wrench untill the pushrod on the intake valve of the particular cyl is all the way up then tighten it untill theirs no up and down movement of the pushrod but can still spin freely. Give it an extra 1/2 turn then turn the motor over untill the exhaust on that cyl is all the way up and do the same for that.
Repeat for each cyl.
Correct?

[Racer X79]

I will be taking the valve covers off tommorow and rechecking the rocker arms.

Turn the motor with a wrench untill the pushrod on the intake valve of the particular cyl is all the way up then tighten it untill theirs no up and down movement of the pushrod but can still spin freely. Give it an extra 1/2 turn then turn the motor over untill the exhaust on that cyl is all the way up and do the same for that.
Repeat for each cyl.
Correct?

You want the pushrod all the way down, not all the way up. Up=Valve open, Down=Valve closed, all the rockers must be adjusted with the valve closed. As Prince said, the easiest way is to chase the firing order-TDC on #1(both pushrods should be even height), tighten the rocker while spinning the pushrod with your fingers and stop when you feel slight resistance(now your at zero lash) and then add 1/4 to 1/2 turn to the rocker. The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. The other way is old school and effective but messy. First, get the car to idle as low as it can without killing and get it up to temperature. Take off the valve covers, then fire it up. While it's running, back off each rocker(one at a time) until it starts to "tick" and then slowly tighten it until it's quiet(zero lash), then add your 1/4 to 1/2 turn to load the lifter. The biggest drawback is that oil will spray out the pushrod hole and get your headers and fenderwells, but it is quick and easy. Good Luck

[jersyboyy]

Yea I did the old school way after my last post, im going to still do the chase the firing order method to be positive its right.

[forest]

get someone over there to help you!
that is one of THE most important things to keeping a flat tappet cam from going flat.

+1 hate to say it but if those rockers were too tight on start up, cam and lifters may be junk.

[jersyboyy]

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Dy...74H-10_001.asp

WOOT I stumbled upon this dyno sheet using almost the IDENTICAL setup im running. (their running the older Dart/World S/R heads-171cc/(76 or 67)cc heads as im using the newer Dart 200cc/72cc heads)

Def Great power/torque numbers but im unclear if its motor or wheel power?
Either way I cant wait to get my carb situation fixed so I can start using this predicted power!

[juicedimpss]

thats crankshaft power for sure.

[theavenger333]

besides, you can build the exact same motor twice and you won't get the same results both times. who cares about power numbers anyway jeremy, it's what gets to the ground that counts.

[jersyboyy]

Das is true Steve.
Either way I need to rebuild my carb and just have fun driving it no matter how much power its making at this point. Thanks for the info guys.

[jersyboyy]

4th gen 3:42 LSD rear with disc brakes-picking it up and putting it in 3 weeks.
Im currently rebuilding the carb I bought(used) because well its been through hell and back. Hopefully I can get the car running right with a carb that doesnt have every gasket torn/dried up including the powervalve and diaphrams.

[jersyboyy]

Im picking up the springs and rear this weekend.
I had some help from the auto shop teacher at my old highschool.

My rocker arms were actually loose as hell!

We tightened them down properly the old school way going one cyl at a time. We then set the timing with a gun and started dialing everything in.

The carb I rebuild was having some problems tho.
First the one idle mixture screw had no effect on the car at all, and after giving it a WOT run the secondaries are getting stuck flooding the carb. Once the secondaries open up they pour gas into the intake and the car coughs and dies. Shes running SUPER rich too.

Im picking up a 750 edelbrock on monday if I cant find a good double pumper this weekend at the big swap meet.