DSM guys in here

[CruxGNZ]

My cousin Joe just bought a '90 Talon TSI. I know very little about these cars. He let me drive it and it makes full boost (10psi) at about 2500rpm's and climbs to about 4500rpm's then it stops making power, like it hit a wall and runs very rich. He has an RJC boost controller and well, that's all I could ID on this thing. For the most part I understand it's stock. Have any idea's or can you guys help point him in the right direction, like web sites to search for answers?

[TheBlueSupra]

That would mostlikely be Fuel cut. I can sell him everything he needs.

[Al]

Boost that early?! Stock, small turbo?

[wikked]

Boost that early?! Stock, small turbo?

Yep, 14b (or 13g if A/T).
People have run 11's on them though good midrange turbo.

And yes, it's fuel cut. Just needs some 550's/660's and a fuel pump rewire or a walbro190/255.
Might need a AFPR with the 660's though.

[TopStreetDsm]

I can sell him everything he needs.

Thats kinda rude. This is a message board not a bill board.


I agree with Wicked. If you are not looking to go crazy with the thing and just to get what it has out of it, then get your hands on some Evo 8-current injectors (560ish cc) and go from there. These go for $100.oo or less.

If you need any help with anything just let me know.

Otherwise,

DSMTuners.com (fairly nice place to search and find beginner info)

DSMTalk.com (moderators are not as strict, which gives you more crap to sift through, but still decent info.)

[TheBlueSupra]

yeah ur pretty dumb. I stated what was wrong with the car. and just added I can sell him the parts. why dont you **** off.

[LIL EVO]

It's not hitting any fuel cut at 10psi. Get rid of the boost controller and run a vacuum hose coming out of the black turbo outlet pipe directly into the wastegate. That should give you 12psi and it should pull to redline just like that. If there are any problems at that point, then you can diagnose them. Take the boost controller out of the mix.

[theavenger333]

yah i was gonna say get rid of the controller, or just turn the boost down for now

[sloLs1]

It's not hitting any fuel cut at 10psi. Get rid of the boost controller and run a vacuum hose coming out of the black turbo outlet pipe directly into the wastegate. That should give you 12psi and it should pull to redline just like that. If there are any problems at that point, then you can diagnose them. Take the boost controller out of the mix.

yea, fuel cut usaully on dsm's is around 16-19psi... taking the boost controller out of the mix up might help or atleast it then you will know that you are boosting the correct amount. what kind of boost gauge are you using. depending on how old it is or if your reading off the one in the dash then it may be wrong! please update us... also remeber this is a 1990. there plugins and some sensors are differnet than all of the other 1 gen. dsms

[CruxGNZ]

I will talk with him tommorow about this. He knows nothing about turbo engines and wants to learn on this one. I'll take the boost controller out and see how she runs. I was just reading the stock boost gauge.

I'll update you guys when I find out more. Oh, its a 5 speed.

One more thing, the rear differential seems to be locked up. Aren't they viscous?

[TopStreetDsm]

yeah ur pretty dumb. I stated what was wrong with the car. and just added I can sell him the parts. why dont you **** off.

Dude you take things too seriously. I was trying to be nice. Then going and telling people to **** off.

Read the general posting rules and stop trying to make money in the boards. I have nothing more to say to you.

[TopStreetDsm]

After re-reading the first post I agree with it being rare to hit fuelcut at 10psi. Have you boost leak check the thing? A torn or leaky IC pipe could cause "low boost fuel cut."

[TheBlueSupra]

yeah well guess what. I bet by you saying you would help him means you would be selling him parts. I was tryin to help by selling him stuff he needs if i get ban for that then so be it your still a tool.

[Cyberdx16]

yeah well guess what. I bet by you saying you would help him means you would be selling him parts. I was tryin to help by selling him stuff he needs if i get ban for that then so be it your still a tool.

hey thebluesupra, do u have a shop located on Rapids Dr in Racine?

[TopStreetDsm]

I bet by you saying you would help him means you would be selling him parts.

Thats why I closed my shop and have been helping select people at little or no cost.... and telling people where to get the parts cheap, not trying to sell it to put cash in my pocket. I gave you too much credit. Let this sh!t die or call me and you can b!tch all you want. I am not going to jack a thread for this!

[twicks69]

Recommendations for the original post:

Remove the boost controller from the mix, run the factory boost control solenoid instead. Then do a boost leak test.

Here is a very basic and cheap way to check for boost leaks.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

If you want a nicer one, here is an excellent one that was made for Z32 300ZX guys that I have purchased in the past. http://www.boostpro.net/prodz32tester.html -- You would want the "Single Pop (Gauged) With Tire Valve Adapter".

But remember, please use a regulated pressure source. Since your motor is more than likely stock, use a boost gauge tapped at the intake manifold and keep your test pressure under 20psi (safe side). If you have a very high line pressure hooked up, it can potentially damage. If you have never done something like this before, then please ask questions. (PM me if necessary) The car should be OFF when you do this. This tool is supposed to be hooked up to the turbo compressor cover inlet (where the intake pipe and air filter assembly connect up to the turbo).

Boost leaks are noticable usually around several different locations: Intercooler pipe couplers, Intercooler end tanks, blow off valve and BOV flange, Intercooler pipes (soft pipes), Throttle body gaskets (TB elbow and IM side), Throttle body shaft seals, and TB BISS (base idle set screw), Intake manifold gasket between IM and cylinder head, Fuel Injector seals (upper and lower), or any vaccuum line connected to the intake manifold or turbo.

If you start to pressurize the system and hear a nothing, and the boost gauges climbs moderately up to the regulated boost pressure, then you have no leaks.

If you start to pressurize the system and hear light squeals or wooshing noises, and the boost gauge climbs slowly, or does not reach the regulated boost pressure without increasing line pressure, then you definitely have boost leaks.

Also if you have alot of quick things you would like to ask, I would check out http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html before asking them. Most likely there have been so many people with the same questions, that they actually answered them on this website.

Otherwise you can PM me and I will be happy to show you in the right direction.

[twicks69]

There is also the potential that it could be a few other things:

Such as:

A dying cam angle sensor (CAS)(or the sensor is inverted 180 degrees) , a worn out knock sensor, or a dying Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF). Heck, it could also be resulting from an old fuel filter along with old and dirty injectors, or an old fuel pump.

Also, when you say it is hitting around 10psi, are you reading the factory instrument dash gauge, or is this an aftermarket gauge? Is this car an automatic, or a stick?

As well, I would inspect the spark plugs (they should be NGK BPR6ES, gapped at .028" - stock), to see if they are actually showing that the car is RICH or LEAN, showing detonation, etc.


Good luck, and I hope to hear more regarding your cousin Joe's talon.

[sloLs1]

There is also the potential that it could be a few other things:

Such as:

A dying cam angle sensor (CAS)(or the sensor is inverted 180 degrees) , a worn out knock sensor, or a dying Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF). Heck, it could also be resulting from an old fuel filter along with old and dirty injectors, or an old fuel pump.

Also, when you say it is hitting around 10psi, are you reading the factory instrument dash gauge, or is this an aftermarket gauge? Is this car an automatic, or a stick?

As well, I would inspect the spark plugs (they should be NGK BPR6ES, gapped at .028" - stock), to see if they are actually showing that the car is RICH or LEAN, showing detonation, etc.


Good luck, and I hope to hear more regarding your cousin Joe's talon.

+1+1 a lot of good info./links!!! and it did state above that he was reading it off of the factory boost gauge. THOSE DONT WORK 80% all the time<<< ahah just kidding! but yea i would definatly take the boost controller out and replace it with the factory solenoid. and if possible install an aftermarket boost gauge.

[CruxGNZ]

Well, couldn't get a hold of him today, maybe tommorow.

Tim, thanks for all the information! Just what I was looking for. He will really appreciate it. Thanks to you other guys for chiming in on this also :2thumbs:

[JTizzle]

hey thebluesupra, do u have a shop located on Rapids Dr in Racine?

he doesnt have a shop at all, its just a website. Sorry back to topic