5.0 runs like crap, then run's ok

**FourEyedFord** · 08-05-2006, 12:27 AM

Originally Posted by IRISH

change it to a blow threw carb application

You typed the words right out of my hands....

**Reverend Cooper** · 08-05-2006, 10:32 AM

Originally Posted by 427 S/C

Daaaaaaaaamn! That is a lot of work for just setting idle speed.

yeah but once set properly it never needs to be adjusted..no offense to you carb guys but the cpu adjusts after that for all conditions hot cold whatever. again no offense to you carb guys. bobby i want a ride

**Greg@GLD** · 08-05-2006, 12:10 PM

The guy's looking for help. If we want this Mustang forum to have traffic, it's probably better to offer him some useful advice.

I know you guys are kidding but it does not help him any to say "go carburated"
He wants to figure out what is wrong. Let's help him.

+1 to coop for the effort.

**DRK** · 08-05-2006, 01:51 PM

Bad Ground??

**FourEyedFord** · 08-05-2006, 06:21 PM

Originally Posted by Greg@GLD

The guy's looking for help. If we want this Mustang forum to have traffic, it's probably better to offer him some useful advice.

I know you guys are kidding but it does not help him any to say "go carburated"
He wants to figure out what is wrong. Let's help him.

+1 to coop for the effort.

Looked like you guys had it pretty much under control.
I won't kid around anymore if its a problem then......
Didn't anyone that took TuffeNuff serious get flamed for it?

**FourEyedFord** · 08-05-2006, 06:28 PM

Originally Posted by sonic blue roush

yeah but once set properly it never needs to be adjusted..no offense to you carb guys but the cpu adjusts after that for all conditions hot cold whatever. again no offense to you carb guys. bobby i want a ride

None taken at all! I know that both sides have their pros and cons.
When I have race gas in it next, I can take you for a spin.

Unfortunatly I can't step on it with pump gas, which is mostly what is in there. Rockett 118 is $9.00 a gallon!!

**Reverend Cooper** · 08-05-2006, 07:12 PM

kewl cant wait bobby

**Greg@GLD** · 08-05-2006, 07:42 PM

Originally Posted by 427 S/C

Looked like you guys had it pretty much under control.
I won't kid around anymore if its a problem then......
Didn't anyone that took TuffeNuff serious get flamed for it?

The difference is that those posts aren't of technical discussion.

It wasn't a flame. It was an observation.

**GRM-REPR** · 08-05-2006, 08:01 PM

I pulled out all the old injectors and all Ohm'd out at .9 to .8 respectively.

Not sure what that means under a load tho.

Upper intake gasket looked like garbage and was wet on the rear runners, oil? Sure it was from the oil sucked into the intake under boost.

Didnt find jack other than that.

I checked and checked again on the proper TPS setting procedures. Sounds like anything above .88v. I will set my idle then adjust tps.

Seems like I'm going to be in for a shock when it still runs like garbage.

Oh, sometimes I wish I would have gone the other route and carb'd it but I decided to stick with EFI and S/C it. No harm done.

**GRM-REPR** · 08-05-2006, 09:51 PM

Well, now it's worse after injectors.

May have more info tho, thing really coughs under 2k. Over 2k rpm's with the pedal down the car seems great, boosts nice and all. Still has the rising hanging idle tho. I shut off the car and restarted it and it idled up and down and ran like sh!t under 2k. I set the TPS (old one, didnt get the new one yet) to around .99v. Odd how I adjust the TPS and the running problem is worse now.?

I'm about out of ideas here and sounds like everyone else is too.

**Lash** · 08-05-2006, 09:53 PM

I know the feeling of the situation you're in...and it SUCKS!

Did you unplug the battery for 20 min. after making all the adjustment so the computer could re-set and relearn the new adjustments?

**GRM-REPR** · 08-05-2006, 09:59 PM

Sure did Lash, and that is getting quite old as well LOL>...

**Lash** · 08-05-2006, 10:03 PM

And there were no codes stored/pulled?

And your EGR is still functional (not deleted)?

**Reverend Cooper** · 08-05-2006, 10:10 PM

there is one other gremlin i have seen the coolant temp sensor for the ecm, could be reading cold all the time causing a rich cond.

**Lash** · 08-05-2006, 10:31 PM

Originally Posted by sonic blue roush

there is one other gremlin i have seen the coolant temp sensor for the ecm, could be reading cold all the time causing a rich cond.

I though about that as well.

**GRM-REPR** · 08-06-2006, 08:33 AM

The ECT? Yup, replace a couple of years ago when I had a cold backfire issue, which turned out to be crappy intake gaskets. ACT has also been replaced.

Carshow is getting rained out today, I'm going to buy a new TPS and IAC and re-set the ecm (AGAIN!) and properlly adj these things and if it doesnt help then I'm a$$ out of luck. I've never struggled so hard on a car before like I'm doing with this damn thing, it's self defeating.

**Greg@GLD** · 08-06-2006, 09:50 AM

Originally Posted by GRM-REPR5.0

The ECT? Yup, replace a couple of years ago when I had a cold backfire issue, which turned out to be crappy intake gaskets. ACT has also been replaced.

Carshow is getting rained out today, I'm going to buy a new TPS and IAC and re-set the ecm (AGAIN!) and properlly adj these things and if it doesnt help then I'm a$$ out of luck. I've never struggled so hard on a car before like I'm doing with this damn thing, it's self defeating.

You haven't said if you checked anything related to the FMU. If that's the problem, throwing electronic parts at the car is not going to solve it.

Out of curiosity, what is the temp of the thermostat (radiator) in this car? 160 by chance? Anything under 180 is a bad idea. The EEC thinks the car hasn't warmed up yet and it will be pig rich and never get out of that mode.

Also, taking an ohm reading does not address if an injector is leaking thru the pintle.

I have another suggestion... Talk to Marv Zuidema at C&M automotive in Hubertus. He has a device that can be plugged into the EEC...
Marv has been letting me his EEC-IV datalogger device called the "SnEECIV"

You can download the software to your PC and play with some log files from my car. You can play these back and stop the action anywhere and look at the results. I know it's somewhat old tech but it still is very interesting. Notice the "MPG" dial. I found at a steady cruise in 5th gear at 60 MPH I get almost 24 MPG.

To play with this, download the software and install it:

http://www.racesystems.com/sneeciv/i...setupsneec.exe

Then right-click and save these small log files to your hard drive: (remember the path to where you put them!)

http://www.gregangeli.com/homemonitor/test.sn0
http://www.gregangeli.com/homemonitor/test.sn2
http://www.gregangeli.com/homemonitor/test.sn3
http://www.gregangeli.com/homemonitor/test.sn4

Now open the program and you will see this display:

Click on "VIEW" then select "Logging control"

This will open a box that looks like this:

To run any of the log files you saved, put the path in the browse box (the browse function may not work, so just manually type it)

Now press PLAY. If you hit the pause button, a "slider" will appear that you can move forward or backward to watch the dials at any given point.

You can find out a lot about what is happening with your EEC. Marv will probably let you use the device or ask you to leave a little security deposit with him.

I also suggested Paul Graham. You didn't say anything. If you can't fix it yourself there's no shame in bringing it to someone who can. That's better than just tossing money out the window for parts that aren't broken in the first place.

And lastly, if you have blow-by problems, no electronic parts will solve that issue. Do a leakdown test and a compression test and see what the condition of your motor is.

**GRM-REPR** · 08-06-2006, 11:43 AM

Greg, I have a 160* t-stat, I've alway's run one with no issues. But now that you mention the fact about being pig rich, it may make sense to go back to a 180.

I would not know how to see if the FMU is hanging up. Like my previous thread said, it's odd now how this thing is even worse after the injector install and the adjustment of the TPS. And while we are on that subject, turns out there are many myth's about those.

Ok, I'll give Mr. Graham a call, I just figured with my vehicle having no emmisions, it would throw code after code.

After having shut off the car last night, then restarting it and having it run like crap even more than before, I figured the problem solving would have been more clear, but it's really not. I'm done throwing parts at it (except the one that fixes it). Your right, it's time to have someone diag this thing.

**Lash** · 08-06-2006, 11:54 AM

Yeha man....put a 180* stat in. 160's are no good.

**GRM-REPR** · 08-06-2006, 01:40 PM

I will agree with both of you.

Codes recived are as follows.

UPDATE................Also got Code 63 TPS signal voltage is too low. In conjunction with 23.
23
31
67
81
84

The only one that stuck out was 23. TPS voltage out of range for test spec. I can only assume I got that code because the engine wasnt running?

Thoughts on this? Figured I'd have more but I was wrong.

Thread: 5.0 runs like crap, then run's ok

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