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I bought that ranger off here a few months ago and have been repairing it to my standards. i can not get the damn thing to warm up. the water pump took a shit so I replaced both the tstat and water pump today the tstat now twice (auto zone brand/car quest brand) i can drive it and open the hood and take the radiator cap off like nothing, no pressure, no heat, nothing. im thinking the heater core is plugged? but the operating temp shouldnt it? fuck gas vehicles:goof:rolf
Is there air in the lines somewhere? Since it is a 2.3 back flushing the heater shouldn't be too hard. Plenty of room. Any of the hoses getting warm, did you test the thermostat in boiling hot water? Does it have a bleed hole on the thermostat?
Stupid questions, I know but I have to ask.
bleed hole? i dont know? LOL i would assume so?? hoses get "warm" but i can pop off the radiator cap at any time, no pressure or boiling. the heater core has its own seperate lines from the waterneck and water pump so i dont think that can cause the engine not to warm?? the temp gauge never moves off "C" also coolant temp is 120* via my laser temp gun in the radiator cap. both thermostats work via a pan of water that i heated. im pretty sure i got all the air out of the lines.
sometimes with a blocked heater core it will not get to normal operating temp, but yea somthing is blocked or it has air in the system most likely, what about the radiater cap itself?
i swapped the cap from my mustang. ranger was a 13 the stang is a 16..
im sure the fact that it has only been like ten degrees out isn't helping either..lol are you taking it on long enough drives? sometimes being as cold as it is just idling or driving just short distances won't get heat into it. just my opinion
also what degree thermastat is in it. and about the air in the cooling system as far as i know would make it run hotter than usual
Sound's like your t-stats wide open.
Do you have the plastic T-stat housing or the metal one?
i tried to different stats, one Zone, one Carquest. the housing is metal. i drove it 30mi got it back to the shop n the cap wasnt even hot, popped it right off. my buddy built a ranger mud truck and pulled the 4.0L and i have it, might just swap it in there LOL or 5.0 would be nice..
flush the core.Mine was the same way after i did my pump.Also, let it run for at least 20 minutes with a funnel on the radiator.My truck, which is identical drivetrain as yours, took a looong time to burp the bubbles out of it.Now it works just fine.
OR turbo 2.3?Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokinRAM114