Anybody know what the final drive ratio in a 6.5l blazer is? Or better yet where I could source a new rear end?
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Anybody know what the final drive ratio in a 6.5l blazer is? Or better yet where I could source a new rear end?
Look at the RPO tag in the glove box, probably 3.73's and I think is GT5?
6.5L Blazer so one of the super rare GMT400s? It's probably 3.42s.
Gear Ratios:
Code Ratio
GU2 2.73
GU4 3.08
GU5 3.23
GU6 3.42
GT4 3.73
GT5/GT8 4.10
Its a GT4, 3.73. I believe the only other option in this chassis was the GU6.
I don't have any of the tools or expertise to rebuild the diff, so ideally I'd just like to swap in a complete assembly. I definitely have the tools and skills to pull and axle and put in a new one, we just did a tcase swap on my buddy's trailblazer today.
I'm not entirely sure what the problem is, I just know I'm getting what basically amounts to a jackhammer sound from the back end, it was going away when power was not applied, but in a trip across town appears to have gotten worse, and is now constant when rolling.
I can rebuild it for you.
Cost and timeframe? I don't really have a way to transport the truck or the axle.. I could offer a garage and space in the basement if you wanted to do it here. Hell, I could have it pulled and reinstall it. I just don't know the first thing about opening up a diff and getting clearances right when it goes back together.
I will probably pull the rear cover tomorrow to at least get a look at it and see what is going on.
fritz does some excellent work.
If absolutely needed I got a pick up with an empty bed if it came to that.
Sounds like a universal joint to me.
But anyway, I'd just buy a whole set of gears on an open or G80 differential, complete with shims, and put it in your case. A little slop never hurt a 200hp powertrain. Just need a new crush collar, 4 quarts of 75w140, and a lot of brake cleaner.
there is no slop in the rear driveshaft, and the sound cycle when slowing down is too slow to be the drive shaft, it sounded like it was about every wheel revolution, which is what pointed toward the diff.
I can get the axle.
PMed.
Pulled the rear shaft (thinking maybe I can FWD it for a few days), and it still clunked in reverse... tried to drop it in drive, and the rear end locked up solid. Backed up some more, and I got a half turn before it locked up again... rinse repeat, got it backed into the driveway again. Rear end is definitely fubared unless someone knows of a reason a rear end locks itself in forward gears with no input hooked up. Left wheel was definitely locked solid, I'm assuming the right was as well, it looked like the driver's side was trying to turn backward, as the truck was on a crowned road, more weight on the right side. I believe this truck has an open diff, last time I jacked it up without chocks, it rolled back, pass side tire turning forward.
After some research, it appears that for the added cost of a $25 conversion u-joint, I can swap in a 14 bolt semi-floater instead of a 10 bolt. I see no reason not to pursue this option instead of rebuilding the 10 bolt. And from what I've found, 14 bolts are actually cheaper? Less demand because they break less maybe? doesn't make much sense to me.
If I can get a 14 bolt with a locker for a decent price, between that and the 1.5" lift block I'll probably throw in (seeing as I seriously doubt these u-bolts will come off cleanly I may as well!) I may actually be GLAD this happened. haha.
get a real 14 bolt (full float) and do a SAS for the front down the road. a 2500 suburban of the same period should bolt right in
What did they put a six lug 14 bolt in?