1957 chevy question

Hello everyone,

I just removed my 283 and 4 speed manual transmission out of my 57 wagon.
I'm going to install a 350 engine and the same 4 speed.

Although I have done my fair share of swaps with TH350s, this is my first engine swap with a manual transmission. I have the engine and transmission still together from when I pulled it and now i'm going to take off the bell housing bolts and start bolting everything up to the 350 engine. Is there any way I can test the clutch and pressure plate just to make sure they are "good?" I drove the car maybe 15 miles before the swap and it seemed "OK" It wasn't the easiest car in the world to drive but honestly the only other stick shift vehicles I have driven were a few late 90s s10s and a third gen camaro or two so I really don't know what to expect with the older iron. Should I just replace both to be on the safe side? any recommendations for a new setup? Thanks!

Beyond inspecting it, I'm not sure there is a sure fire way to test it if it's "good" or not. Definitely inspect and if there is a lot of material left on the friction disc, and it seems obviously newer, sure...reuse it.

If it looks like it's been in a while, I've always have been of the opinion that if you're going through all the trouble to get the trans out, why not just resurface the flywheel and get a new clutch/pressure plate? At least then you'll KNOW you've got a good unit, rather than getting it together and finding that while it worked behind a 283, the greater strength of a 350 was a bit too much for the old unit...

If it's a stockish but hot 350, I would think that stockish replacements from RAM, Zoom, etc...they have mild upgrades with greater clamping forces, better friction material...without being overkill, or too expensive.

You didn't mention what your budget is but since it's that far apart, I would have the flywheel resurfaced and put a new clutch and pressure plate in.

If your in a pinch or just want to roll the dice, the clutch worked before, it should work again.

My dad and I had a 55, 2 door, 210 post. Love those shoe box Chevys including the nomads!

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Originally Posted by Irish

You didn't mention what your budget is but since it's that far apart, I would have the flywheel resurfaced and put a new clutch and pressure plate in.

If your in a pinch or just want to roll the dice, the clutch worked before, it should work again.

My dad and I had a 55, 2 door, 210 post. Love those shoe box Chevys including the nomads!

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Thanks guys,

I don't think i'm going to "roll the dice." Any recommendations on a place that will resurface my flywheel for me? Hopefully with a quick turnaround. I am having a hardtime finding a clutch/pressure plate that will work-- it looks like a lot of GM vehicles used the same clutch/pressure plate through the years-- is there any truth to this? Thanks!

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Originally Posted by xFullThrottlex

Thanks guys,

I don't think i'm going to "roll the dice." Any recommendations on a place that will resurface my flywheel for me? Hopefully with a quick turnaround. I am having a hardtime finding a clutch/pressure plate that will work-- it looks like a lot of GM vehicles used the same clutch/pressure plate through the years-- is there any truth to this? Thanks!

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They used the same clutch, pressure plate and flywheel on a lot of the same vehicles with sizes varying based on performance or work duty.

I've always used C&S to resurface my flywheel. Quick turn around time. There is also Nader (sp?) in Waukesha.

I am going to rip apart the trans sometime today and ride up to C&S tomm. They said they would do it for $45 which seems very reasonable.

Maybe when i'm up there I'll see if they can't help me pick out a new clutch/pressure plate assembly. The 350 is no ground pounder but if I ever get crazy with it, it would be nice to know the clutch/trans would be up to the job. Thanks!

I would replace the disk and pressure plate. You don't want to find out it works but maybe slips etc.
I have a Center Force Dual Friction in my RX7 behind the Chevy 383 Stroker. It has great clamping and also no vibration.
I had a Zoom before that worked okay but had some annoying vibration.
Kilpatrick Engines and Transmissions in Waukesha can resurface your flywheel quickly.

What trans do you have in the rx7? I'm guessing something like a 26 spline and a 10.5" clutch?

Looks very nice!

Thanks.

I'm running an 11 spline T5 from a 91 Camaro. 10.5" clutch. Custom made drive shaft from Machine Service in Waukesha. Mated to the Mazda TII 8" clutched posi IRS diff.
My best time is 11.9 at 118mph with a 1.9 60ft. at GLD with Nitto drag radials all motor.


It's a lot of fun to drive.

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Originally Posted by bikedad

Thanks.

I'm running an 11 spline T5 from a 91 Camaro. 10.5" clutch. Custom made drive shaft from Machine Service in Waukesha. Mated to the Mazda TII 8" clutched posi IRS diff.
My best time is 11.9 at 118mph with a 1.9 60ft. at GLD with Nitto drag radials all motor.


It's a lot of fun to drive.

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bikedad are you running a scatter shield? I called Jegs and they told me its not a bad idea to run one. I dropped the transmission from the engine and found out I need to order a new flywheel as the block i'm using is an 87' I do have a smaller budget (hey it is what it is) and I can get a new one (I'm sure its made in china) from Jegs for $75. I have a 1968 Muncie Trans with a 10 spline input shaft and an 11in clutch. The $75 flywheel is iron, everyone says run billet but thats 3x the cost. The scatter shield is $362 whereas the cast iron bellhousing that I have is free. I would like a heavier duty clutch and pressure plate and I do like having all my toes but is a billet flywheel and blowproof bellhousing necessary for a street car that may see a 5500rpm shift once in awhile? I'm not going to have my foot in it all the time maybe once in awhile, but overall i'm going to drive it somewhat civilized.

I'm not running a scatter shield but,,,I probably should be. Also a drive shaft loop.
I have my motor pilled at 7K. I have hit the limiter on occasion. The Zoom clutch I had earlier had some vibration that concerned me. My current Center Force runs smooth as silk. I take my car out on occasion to GLD but mostly it's street driven. (after breaking the motor 2 times it was getting expensive) When I pull the motor next I'll probably get a scatter shield. I have a DS loop to install but just haven't had a chance to get it in yet.
I'm not going to say you don't need the scatter shield but 5500 isn't what I would consider too much. But if you build the motor more then I would definitely recommend it.
My block is a 79 Chevy truck block with 2 piece rear mains. I'm running the stock flywheel that was resurfaced at Kilpatrick. (I think it cost me $50 to resurface) I would be leary of the Jegs flywheel if it's Chinese. I've seen way too many brake rotors fail to trust something like that in my motor. You could probably get a flywheel either off Craigslist or the junkyard in Sussex for cheap.

Now with all this being said my car is 2900 lbs soaking wet with a tank of gas. Your 57 is considerably heavier so you should take that into consideration.
Jim Kilpatrick and I did a bench build to come up with specs for my motor build and clutch selection. I told him I wanted a lopey motor that will run on premium, streetable and hold it's own at GLD once in a blue moon. He ordered the parts and machined/clearanced the block for the stroker kit. I had him degree it as well. I took the rest home and assembled it and stuck it in the car. I have 4500 miles on this motor right now.

that thing sounds awesome! I've been on the phone all morning with centerforce, zoom, jegs, and summit and I have not gotten all of the answers I wanted haha. We will see where I end up!

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Originally Posted by bikedad

My current Center Force runs smooth as silk.

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That's an advantage of centerforces...they tend to be self-balancing.

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Originally Posted by Prince Valiant

That's an advantage of centerforces...they tend to be self-balancing.

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Yeah, It has those rotating outside weights or whatever they're called. looks like an abacus mounted to the clutch. LOL It really does work.

Well guys I ended up getting a zoom zzz300015 clutch kit and a ram billet flywheel and a mini starter, I will post pics as soon as this stuff arrives!

Just a quick question... When the throwout bearing is installed in the clutch fork should it be easily removed if I pull on the side that does not retain the clutch fork? My clutch fork does not "Snap" the throwout bearing like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e4e8P0fFltkthe but it does hold it rather well (unless I twist it a little bit and pull out.) Is this normal? Thanks!

My clutch fork does not have that retaining spring that is shown in the video.
I just slide my TO bearing between the two pins on the fork. It holds it just enough for me to slide the trans in place.
After that it isn't going anywhere except back and forth on the input shaft via the fork being actuated from the slave unit.

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Originally Posted by bikedad

My clutch fork does not have that retaining spring that is shown in the video.
I just slide my TO bearing between the two pins on the fork. It holds it just enough for me to slide the trans in place.
After that it isn't going anywhere except back and forth on the input shaft via the fork being actuated from the slave unit.

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Thanks bikedad, thats what i wanted to hear!