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Oh, forgot to add, all the wiring looks just fine... basically outside of tuneup stuff (plugs, belts), oil changes, new tires, brakes, headlight bulbs and wipers everything is stock and original... I only *just* replaced the battery when all of this started happening, otherwise that was original as well...
Since you stated unplugging the sensor starts the car I would test that circuit and the sensors output.
Oreilly seems to have the worst electrical parts from my experience. The new sensor is it the same length?
It is COLD!!!
Just got done diagnosing all the electrical... It is all fine... Sensor to ECM, ECM relay power, power to sensor, ground to sensor, etc, etc...
Also pulled the valve cover again, double checked all the "windows" in the end of the cam are clear.
I cannot find a OEM sensor locally in stock outside of a dealer, and they are not open on sundays and I won't pay the $80-90 cost when I can get it for $50 online or ordered locally from Autozone...
I may just put a meter on the signal wire and while the car is running make sure I get pulsing from the aftermarket sensor... If so I think my only route is a new ECM...
Can these things develop single-bit errors where a reflash would "fix" the problem???
I know the 2.5l motors has a recall for a calibration issue where the crank/cam sensors could fail and in turn they would fry part of the ECM, so the dealers flashed a new program to "fix" those per the recall. If all of this stuff is the same parts/engineering I think it is damn piss-poor of nissan to ignore the 1.8l motors since common sense would dictate it could happen on those as well. Per the failure mode on the 2.5l, the camshaft sensor going out and taking out the input on the ECM would cause the exact same situation I am running into. If it happens on the crank position sensor instead the car will die. That is why they went to a metal-encased sensor to keep it alive in failure mode, but it doesn't fix the dying of the input on the ECM. The new calibration basically turns off the "read" of that input so that it doesn't overload in failure. Since the calibrations on the 1.8l have never been changed I can only assume either a) they already had that fix in from the start (which makes no sense as the same old code is probably what the 2.5l ran with as well), or b) they figured it happen so infrequently that it wasn't worth the recall.
Call a Nissan dealership and talk to a Service writer and explain your issue. Maybe they can help and save you from buying anymore unnecessary parts. I don't know if Andrew still has a Nissan dealer but maybe Coop can send you to a knowledgeable guy over there.
Yeah, already talked to Gordie Boucher Nissan today, basically they have seen the sensors go bad and take out the ECM, rare, but it does happen. The new sensor design is supposed to keep the sensor from dying from heat and also from it taking out the ECM if it does die. $63-64 for 1/2 hour labor to reflash the ECM. Of course they "recommend" a new ECM vs a used one. They want $103 for the sensor, but I can get it from Autozone for half that within a day so I will get the updated sensor from Autozone and order an ECM off ebay and have it flashed if I need it. I am done fucking around with it... Never would have imagined an engine management design where a sensor can go bad and takeout the input on the ECM. I would like to kick the engineer that didn't think of that failure mode right in the nuts...
Well, screw Autozone since they can't order the damn updated sensor either...
I ended up ordering the updated sensor online, along with a take-off ECM with the exact same part number and configuration I have. Hopefully I can install it and do the throttle and idle calibrations and be done with it... If it has to "marry" to a bunch of other modules I guess I will be getting it flashed as well...
I've replaced a good amount of ECUs mostly on Chrysler, Ford and I've done a few Nissans. The older Ford Escape 3.0 when the coil packs went they took out the ECU so it's not uncommon. Good Luck sorry I couldn't help you better.
Hey, I really do appreciate all the input...
Ok, so I won't be so harsh on Nissan...
Oh, and my Explorer Conversion van (basically a Chevy Express 1500 AWD) doesn't like the REALLY cold temps... was driving to pickup the wife tonight and hard a clunking in the front and the ABS light is on... Seems to have a clunking/grinding in the passenger front... Brakes looked good about 4 months ago, so I would be kinda shocked if it was those, but anything is possible... I am expecting it to be the wheel hub at the very least. Either way I already have new front rotors and all new calipers/brackets/pads already loaded and ready to install, so if I do the passenger hub (I already did the drivers front hub this last week) I will just do the brakes at the same time. Sucks tho since I need to wait until Friday to get some decent temps since the van is too big to fit in the garage (even tho I have 8ft doors, the openings are 7ft 8" and the van itself is 7ft 9" tall)... Unless I drop the fronts via the height adjusters and reduce tire pressure to almost flat??? Then again I need to measure the doors lift arms to make sure they would clear as well as make sure I could jack it up in the garage too...
Damn, forgot, I can't pull the Camaro out since it has road race tires on it that will crack due to the cold... fark... Oh well, I guess I get to wait...
Anyways, I will grab my laptop and go read the ABS codes in a little bit to verify what is exactly the issue there...
Well, that confirms it, got an ABS code of C0040, which is Right Front Speed Sensor... It comes back instantly on a code clear, so it is most certainly the front passenger wheel hub that is fubar'd... Got one on order already...
Wow, what a PITA...
Th wife took the Sentra last night to go see clients since the van was down... Made it to the gas station a mile away, fills up, car won't restart...
So, I am forced to drive the van there to see if it was something easy, no dice... Sentra won't start at all... Call a buddy, push the Sentra into a parking spot (almost got frostbite since I forgot my gloves I was in a rush), he gave the wife a ride to her clients, I arranged another car with family, I drove the van home, went and got the other car, picked up the wife and stopped back at the Sentra on the outside chance it would start with JUST the cam sensor this time and not the crank sensor...
Sure enough, started up, didn't let it warm up long, got in, had the wife follow me and drove the Sentra home. In the scramble I forgot to reset the codes, so it was in limp-home mode and barely had any power because of it... But, I got it home and later this week when parts come in I will move the cam sensor that obviously works to the crank position, install the new updated cam sensor and see if she runs... If not I will install the new computer and see if it runs. I have no idea if the 2006 will need a flash to talk to all the other modules in the car on the bus, and if so I will just disconnect the cam sensor with the original computer in and take it in and have it flashed...
Oh, and the vans front right hub is most certainly gone... Barely made it home with it making noise...
burn it
Actually, I have read at least one case where someone did just that... Same set of issues...Quote:
Originally Posted by jbiscuit
Well, looks I am stuck going to the dealer, RKWorld won't program the ECM...
So, anyone have any decent recommendations for a reliable and trustworthy Nissan dealership???
I just want it programmed without hassles... I figure they are going to do the idle learn and off-throttle procedure stuff to get it running properly... I just don't want some place that is going to give me a ton of BS on it... I just have nightmares of them trying to claim this or that and basically just fucking me around trying to get me to spend more money... All while I know that there is nothing wrong with the sensors, wiring or timing... There is only one option left, the ECM... And I know the replacement I have works because it was in a running 2006 Sentra with all the same options with 22k miles that had the drivers side caved in... Still ran without codes pulling it off the flatbed before it was stripped.
Well, went to Gordie-Boucher Nissan in Greenfield. They did a great job doing the programming and even diagnosed it. Came back with their best guess is that it needs a new timing chain.
So, I go ahead and ordered a new timing chain tensioner, since it was much more likely that went bad vs a the chain stretching at 84k miles... I go out, pull the upper front cover and notice the tensioner is out almost all the way... Wouldn't ya know it, the chain is stretched...
At this point I have decided to just get the Cloyes timing set, which includes the chain, new guides, new sprockets (except for the VVT sprocket) and a new tensioner. Since the car has consumes a little coolant (about a resevoir full every two years) as well as oil (about a quart every 4-5k miles), I have decided to also go ahead and replace the headgasket and head bolts (since it is a known issue with the QG18DE motors that the headgaskets blow). For the headgasket kit and the headbolts I am probably just going to order a FelPro stuff, unless someone else has a better suggestion. I know I could buy the "no-name" kits for this stuff for about half price on ebay, but I question the quality.
I figure I will also replace the water pump and drive belts while I am in there... If the tensioner pulley bearing is worn I will change that out as well...
What sucks is that I now have a nice heated garage (probably the best upgrade was installing the HVAC system out there) that sits at 60 degrees all the time and I can heat it up to 70 degrees within a few hours, but I have so much stuff out there it is damn near impossible to get a third car in there until I can pull at least one of the sports cars out to move things around. This damn extended deep-freeze is killing me since I can't park either sports car outside in the cold because the tires would crack (they are really soft race compounds).
If anyone needs a new tensioner for a QG18DE motor I have a new ITE one in the box I would let go for real cheap... I don't think it is worth the cost/hassle to try to ship it back to the ebay seller in Texas...
Find out if the OEM headgasket is a MLS gasket or not, then if the FelPro gasket set has a MLS gasket. If you don't know MLS stands for Multi Layer Steel and if they have a MLS gasket then only such gasket should be used. Now if they have a composite type HG and these engines are prone for HG failures I would find a MLS as it will reduce the chances of another gasket failure. The main thing when installing a MLS gasket is to make sure both the head and blocks surfaces are perfect. In my experience when I am using a MLS gasket I will have the head and block resurfaced to a Ra value of no higher then 25. Sorry to hear you have to go through all of this crap and good luck.
Yep, know all about the differences between composite, graphite and MLS gaskets...
Turns out they do specify a MLS gasket OEM. I checked and the Felpro PermaSeal specified for this application is a MLS as well. The Felpro version actually is one of the few that has a complete blocker coating (ie rubber coating) to just about gurantee a seal as long as the block/head are not warped. Basically the FelPro gaskets are more forgiving, which is just fine in an app like this that is a daily driver.
Thanks for the concern, it is appreciated. Just about everyone I talked to is shocked that it is a stretched chain at only 84k miles. I already stopped driving the car except for "emergency purposes" until I can get everything done...
I guess I might as well place my order with RockAuto and get it over with...
Well, RockAuto is now charging tax in Wisconsin... Total came to just about $250 shipped for everything.
I guess it will probably take me a weekend... I don't think I will have enough time available in one day to get it done. But, it is parked until I can get to it.
So, got the Sentra done... Used a Cloyes timing set with new tensioner, guides and new sprockets (except for the intake cam sprocket since it is VVT), new Felpro MLS headgasket set, oil pan gasket and front cover sets, a new flex pipe section (old was rotted) and even a new oil pan (getting the old one off was a major PITA since they RTV the fucking things on with super-RTV it seems and I bent a couple of hte pan rails enough to not want to deal with straightening them)... I made sure I used the gasket kit for the oil pan instead of RTV alone (I still used RTV, but now getting it off isn't going to destroy the pan rails in the process). And, yeah, I know they make a tool for cutting the pan away, but I honestly don't like the idea of no gasket from the PITA factor.
So, got it all done, even put in new belts, new idler pulley and a new waterpump...
Starts right up... Runs great... No SES light, no codes stored... Registered 25.9mpg on my test drive and it hasn't registered higher than 22-23mpg in the past 2-3 years... With some more highway miles I am hoping to see 28-29mpg like it used to...
This winter was really harsh on the brakes and stuff and I noticed the front struts have been leaking, so looks like I am going to do brakes all around and new struts all around as well...
For the brakes I figure I will use the Raybestos pro-grade stuff (new rotors, loaded calipers, new drums, new shoes, new hardware kit) and the struts I will use Monroe Quick-Struts (since the have a $120 rebate on a set of 4 right now). I also have been hearing what sounds like a rear wheel bearing making noise for a few thousand miles so I will just order a set of wheel bearings/hubs for the back... Total from Rock Auto is about $730 or so before the discount.
I am hoping after all this I won't have to mess with this car outside of oil changes and filters for quite some time...
Forgot to ask, any recommendations for someplace to do an alignment?