5.0 build

I'm looking to do my first motor build. I've acquired some parts, borderline impulse buys; but they are used items, and I found the prices to be very reasonable. I know I don't have all I need yet and there isn't any thing particular I have my heart set upon, so I'm very willing to listen to the suggestions on teh collective.

The car: 1990 LX hatch. 105k miles. Black with black interior, armrest delete, no sunroof, working ashtray. Originally an AOD car, I converted it to T5.

Parts awaiting installation: Alston chassis works upper and lower rear control arms. Ford SFC's, 3G alternator, BBK strut tower brace.

Needs: Rack and pinion (pissing fluid, going with a 15:1). Shocks and struts. I'm thinking of going with KYB AGX's. Gonna do the struts as soon as the motor is done and the car is getting put back on the road. Springs, rear shocks, and CC plates will come next winter. Can I really ditch my quads after replacing the rear control arms? Cold air intake. It's gonna need a rear end soon. It's got 3.08s and a worn track-lok. Will be getting 3.73's and a new posi next winter provided it don't get done blowed up before then.

I'm looking to have a strong, daily drivable car that can run 12's and hold it's own on a SCCA parking lot cone course occasionally.

Enough rambling, on with the motor...

What the motor has: BBK 70MM TB and EGR plate. BBK shorty's, underdrives, flow master 40's. These parts were on the car when I bought it. I added a BBK o/r x-pipe when I did the tranny swap. As far as I know everything inside the motor is stock.

I picked up a Trick Flow Street Heat upper, lower, 1" spacer, 180* t-stat, gaskets and hardware. I also am picking up a pair of Edelbrock Performer RPM 60229 (1.90/1.60) heads, Trick Flow 1.6 RR tomorrow (CL deal, so fingers crossed that it actually happens.)

I did some searches and didn't find any one using this combo. Some questions: Any thoughts on how well it will work together? Thoughts on a cam? Injectors? MAF? Is my stock fuel pump up to the task at hand for now?

I was looking into the c&l MAF and tube because I have some CAI pieces that were in a box of parts I bought in order to get a shifter boot while doing my t5 swap.

I've fixed thousands of cars as a professional mechanic, but this is my first performance build. Again, many thanks in advance.

if those roller rockers fall through,let me know i have a few sets around.

I'd definitely look to upgrade the camshaft. With that set of decent flowing heads, I'd probably look for something in the 212-224 range. Will have pretty decent driveability, and any cam within this range paired with those heads would likely make power into the 6,300-6,500 range.

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Originally Posted by -stew-

I also am picking up a pair of Edelbrock Performer RPM 60229 (1.90/1.60) heads, Trick Flow 1.6 RR tomorrow (CL deal, so fingers crossed that it actually happens.)

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i still have these if you want them tonight call me or anytime in the afternoon sun (after 3pm) give me a call 414 350 4036.

Have since picked up a set of 24#'s and matching C&L MAF, BBK 255 in tank fuel pump. Last night I picked up a Eddy Performer RPM intake with 30#'s beacuse it was a good deal that I can make some money on.

Anyone have any thoughts on witch of these intakes is better for my set up? Take the 30's over the 24's? Any thoughts on a cam? Car is being set up as a summer driver. I'm going the handling route rather than the drag route, so mid range power and torque is more important than peak HP numbers.

what you want for the 30s?

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Originally Posted by juicedimpss

what you want for the 30s?

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$125 if I don't use them.

If you wanna go more the handling route you may wanna shy away from the 3:73s. They are not bad gears and cruise nice on the interstate but as of now on 245 rear street tires I get ZERO traction in first gear and little in second gear. I actually am gonna try swapping from my 3:73s to a set of 3:55s. If I do (hopefully more of a when I do) if you still want 3:73's I'll sell you mine.

I got a ANderson N61 cam with 2.05 valve 58cc heads and it clears with the stock piston though. lifts around .542 if I remember corretly. Anderson doesnt tell you cam specs till you buy though. But they help you out as much as possible cams are 300 bucks though.

I'd recommend this cam:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku

Not too expensive, should give great mid-range, and even good power paired with those heads. Anything from 3.55 and up should be fine with gears.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by -stew-

What the motor has: BBK 70MM TB and EGR plate. BBK shorty's, underdrives, flow master 40's. These parts were on the car when I bought it. I added a BBK o/r x-pipe when I did the tranny swap. As far as I know everything inside the motor is stock.

I picked up a Trick Flow Street Heat upper, lower, 1" spacer, 180* t-stat, gaskets and hardware. I also am picking up a pair of Edelbrock Performer RPM 60229 (1.90/1.60) heads, Trick Flow 1.6 RR tomorrow (CL deal, so fingers crossed that it actually happens.)

I did some searches and didn't find any one using this combo. Some questions: Any thoughts on how well it will work together? Thoughts on a cam? Injectors? MAF? Is my stock fuel pump up to the task at hand for now?

I was looking into the c&l MAF and tube because I have some CAI pieces that were in a box of parts I bought in order to get a shifter boot while doing my t5 swap.

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For a cone killer I would use the TFS intake, leave the stock cam in it, and put 1.7 rockers on it. It will still make 285-300rwhp and pull hard from idle with a 3:73 gear. C&L are junk, I would find a real pro-m and 24lb injectors will be perfect.
When it's time to upgrade parts, Maximum Motorsports makes the best parts for a good handling Mustang period. I had a MM TQ arm/ PHB setup in my last coupe and could put the power down apex out like no other Mustang I've been in.

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Originally Posted by Inspector13

If you wanna go more the handling route you may wanna shy away from the 3:73s. They are not bad gears and cruise nice on the interstate but as of now on 245 rear street tires I get ZERO traction in first gear and little in second gear. I actually am gonna try swapping from my 3:73s to a set of 3:55s. If I do (hopefully more of a when I do) if you still want 3:73's I'll sell you mine.

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Have you done any suspension work? Because I'm doin' uppers, lowers, H&R springs, Bilstein shocks and struts, subframe connectors, and 285's out back. I'm not worried about my mild h-c-i 302 not hooking up with some 3.73's. If you are roachin your tires through second, I'm guessing it's you.

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Originally Posted by Sprayaway Fox

I got a ANderson N61 cam with 2.05 valve 58cc heads and it clears with the stock piston though. lifts around .542 if I remember corretly. Anderson doesnt tell you cam specs till you buy though. But they help you out as much as possible cams are 300 bucks though.

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I've been pointed towards Anderson by a few people and looking at the specs you give that cam won't work with stock pistons. And a trip over to Anderson's website just confirmed that.


I'm still researching. I think I'm opting away from the e cam and am gonna go custom, anderson, maybe comp xe

I have Eibach springs, subframe connectors, upper and lower control arms, and 245 Sumitomos HTRZ. I also have a Trickflow street burner engine package, 24# injectors/Granatelli sensor, full exhaust, cai, underdrive pullies, tune, blah, blah, blah. Pretty typical stuff. When the tires get real warm it will squak them pretty good. I'm not be the greatest driver but I know I don't suck at it either though. lol


I plan on upgrading my suspension more with a bunch of stuff from Maximum Motorsports as well as wider tires. I also do ALOT of interstate driving and am looking for a little better gas mileage which is another reason why I plan on switching the gears.

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Originally Posted by DRK

For a cone killer I would use the TFS intake, leave the stock cam in it, and put 1.7 rockers on it. It will still make 285-300rwhp and pull hard from idle with a 3:73 gear. C&L are junk, I would find a real pro-m and 24lb injectors will be perfect.
When it's time to upgrade parts, Maximum Motorsports makes the best parts for a good handling Mustang period. I had a MM TQ arm/ PHB setup in my last coupe and could put the power down apex out like no other Mustang I've been in.

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why do you suggest the stock can with 1.7's? cost, power, driveability? what's wrong with a c&l? I got it as part of a nice deal with a set of 24#'ers. I will be buyin the MM starter box for my shocks, struts and springs. torque arm and phb will prolly go in next winter..

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Originally Posted by Inspector13

I have Eibach springs, subframe connectors, upper and lower control arms, and 245 Sumitomos HTRZ. I also have a Trickflow street burner engine package, 24# injectors/Granatelli sensor, full exhaust, cai, underdrive pullies, tune, blah, blah, blah. Pretty typical stuff. When the tires get real warm it will squak them pretty good. I'm not be the greatest driver but I know I don't suck at it either though. lol


I plan on upgrading my suspension more with a bunch of stuff from Maximum Motorsports as well as wider tires. I also do ALOT of interstate driving and am looking for a little better gas mileage which is another reason why I plan on switching the gears.

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I did not know you had that much done to your car. I didn't mean to come off as insulting. let me know when and if you pull them gears. if the price is right I might scoop them up. I couldn't give a phuck what I get for gas mileage. I'm cool with pretty much anything double digits. My S10 gets 26 mpg if I need to save on gas.

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Originally Posted by -stew-

why do you suggest the stock can with 1.7's? cost, power, driveability? what's wrong with a c&l? .

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why do you suggest the stock can with 1.7's? cost, power, driveability?

Low end torque, it will still pull to 5k-5500rpm and you'll only be leaving 30 hp on the table vs a custom cam that won't make as much low end TQ. It's also free.

what's wrong with a c&l?

I've had nothing but problems with idle and drive ability using C&L meters. I wouldn't run it if it was free.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DRK

why do you suggest the stock can with 1.7's? cost, power, driveability?

Low end torque, it will still pull to 5k-5500rpm and you'll only be leaving 30 hp on the table vs a custom cam that won't make as much low end TQ. It's also free.

what's wrong with a c&l?

I've had nothing but problems with idle and drive ability using C&L meters. I wouldn't run it if it was free.

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I have seen a lot of guys on corral(dot)met using the stock cam on a top ended motor who are happy with it. I may just try the stock cam since its there and would only cost me a gasket set and an afternoons worth of time. Plus leaving the stock stick in there for now gives me plenty of time to talk to people and further research my set up. thank you for your advice.

The stock cam with the 1.7s is definately a good option especially if on a budget. The C&Ls are pretty well known for causing problems when trying to tune, the new SCT meters are supposed to be the hot ticket, though I'm only going off of what Ive read, I dont have any of that fancy EFI stuff in my GT.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by -stew-

I did not know you had that much done to your car. I didn't mean to come off as insulting. let me know when and if you pull them gears. if the price is right I might scoop them up. I couldn't give a phuck what I get for gas mileage. I'm cool with pretty much anything double digits. My S10 gets 26 mpg if I need to save on gas.

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No worries. I didn't take it as insulting. Like I said I know full well I am not the best driver around. lol :thumbsup


Not a problem. You'll be the first person to know if I yank them. I wouldn't ask for very much for them, $25-$50 tops. I average about 21-22 mpg with the 3:73's. If I can keep my foot off the happy pedal.

The stock cam is definitely the way like Jesse said (DRK)...I had a 306 with stock P heads and stock cam with 1.72 and Trick Flow springs...car ran awesome and very strong..

If you need valve springs I have some brand new take off TRick Flow springs