Printable View
I have an 03 Yukon 4x4 and the past day I have been getting an intermittent grinding sound from the front end area. It is random and lasts about 10-30 seconds and sounds like grinding gears but I cant tell. Is there a way to tell if its from the transfer case or not? All fluids were changed about a month ago and the 4wd module was replaced about 2 months ago.
scratch that it just let go and I think it WAS the front diff. sound like cracking metal whenever its rolling in gear. I couldnt find anything loose suspension wise.
Oh Shit! Are you sure its not the actuator? # 3
http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...6140/119176141
Dan, I am about to start on it now to verify.
Sounds like an inspection is in order.
There are quite a few TSB's on front drive axles.
Including synthetic fluid for F axles for colder climates.
Some descriptions;
'Some customers may comment on a growl or moan-type noise coming from the front axle above 50 km/h (30 mph). This condition may be described as a noise that phases or cycles in and out. This noise is present in the 2WD mode only, and may be present whether the vehicle is accelerating, decelerating, or at a steady speed. The noise goes away in 4WD or Auto 4WD modes.'
'Some customers may comment on a slight whine noise from the front of the vehicle during light throttle conditions, typically at two vehicle speed ranges of 64-80 km/h (40-50 mph) and 112-129 km/h (70-80 mph).'
'Some customers may comment about whine or click type noises from the front axle. Upon further investigation, disassembly of the front differential may reveal chipped pinion or ring gear teeth.'
Dude, that sucks yoo! did you change the fluid or did you have someone do it for you?
Even at a crawl speed its LOUD and grinding and in both fwd/rev. The sound becomes more of a clicking/grinding sound when the wheel is turned. All fluids were replaced with Royal Purple about a month ago. I pulled the wheel and checked over all of the components and nothing but I did notice a grind/click from the wheel bearing when I was turning it by hand.Quote:
Originally Posted by wrencher
Is it growl type noise ? If its a Bearing I can help you out with parts and labor.
Could be a wheel bearing,grab the top&bottom of the tire and see if there's alot of play in them.
yup twas the bearing. Its fucked hard too! damm near a 1/4" gap of play when you pull the wheel and grab the bearing and move it around. I picked up a bearing assmbly last minute from autozone(had to borrow my neighbor's truck!) only to find that the halfshaft is shredded now too due to all of the movement. The teeth on the shaft are worn out on one side and the truley fucked up thing is that I just had the module replaced due to an error that was popping up(service 4wd & flashing switch) and now I find out it was the shaft/bearing the entire time because of the enormous amount of play in it.
Now is there an easy way to get the damm bearing off? After spending an hour with a 7lb sledgehammer, I have resorted to jacking the truck up by the bearing itself and letting it sit like that hoping to break it free(yes, jack stands are still under it).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooformula
You need to hit it so it starts to turn in the spindle, (by turning I mean like how the wheel rolls) I think you will need a large punch and a trusting buddy to hold it :wooo while you hit it with the sledge.
I use an air hammer, and hammer right on the corner of the hub flange to get it to turn, then go from behind and it will pop out. Clean all the rust off in the hole the hub goes into and put coating of grease on it, next time, it will come right out. :thumbsup
thanks so far for all of the help fellas! Dan, thanks for the offer and I would come by you to get parts but I dont have a ride.
I can have the discount given at the 74th and Good Hope store. Call me if you need me.
Front Drive Axle
Notes
FRONT DRIVE AXLE REPLACEMENT
Tools Required
* J45859 Axle Remover
Removal Procedure
1. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the drive axle center cap, if equipped.
http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...5664/119184440
4. Insert a drift or a large screwdriver through the brake caliper into one of the brake rotor vanes in order to prevent the drive axle wheel drive shaft from turning.
5. Remove the nut and the washer from the hub. Do not reuse the nut. A new nut must be used when installing the wheel drive shaft.
6. Using the J45859 or equivalent, press the wheel drive shaft from the hub.
http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...5664/119184441
7. Remove the 6 bolts (1) securing the wheel drive shaft inboard flange to the output shaft flange.
8. Remove the drift from the rotor.
9. Remove the stabilizer shaft link from the lower control arm.
10. Wrap shop towels around both the inner and the outer wheel drive shaft boots in order to avoid damage to the boots during removal and installation.
11. Pull the wheel drive shaft through the lower control arm opening.
Installation Procedure
1. Wrap shop towels around both the inner and the outer wheel drive shaft boots in order to avoid damage to the boots during removal and installation. Important: Clean the steering knuckle and the wheel drive shaft splines and threads. These areas must be dry and free of grease, dirt, and contamination.
2. Insert the wheel drive shaft splined shank into the knuckle hub. Notice: Use only a genuine GM front wheel drive shaft nut. Installation of anything but an OEM front wheel drive shaft nut could cause damage to the vehicle.
http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...5664/119184441
3. Install the washer (3) and the new hub nut (2) to the wheel drive shaft. Do not tighten the new hub nut at this time.
4. Attach the wheel drive shaft inboard flange to the output shaft flange using the inboard flange bolts (1). Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...5664/119184443
5. Insert a drift or a large screwdriver through the brake caliper into 1 of the brake rotor vanes in order to prevent the wheel drive shaft from turning.
o Tighten the inboard flange bolts to 79 Nm (58 ft. lbs.) .
o Tighten the hub nut to 240 Nm (177 ft. lbs.) .
6. Remove the drift from the rotor.
http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...5664/119184444
7. Install the drive axle center cap, if equipped.
8. Install the stabilizer shaft link.
9. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
10. Lower the vehicle.
FIXED!!!! The bearing literally fell apart after a few whacks and the housing was stuck inside so I put the bolts back in it and began to hit them with the mallet and it popped out finally. It helped a ton to take the axle shaft out since it needed to be replaced anyway.
just a small gap.....
http://www.brewcitymuscle.com/albums...0139.sized.jpg
http://www.brewcitymuscle.com/albums...0140.sized.jpg
did not like the sledgehammer..
http://www.brewcitymuscle.com/albums...0141.sized.jpg
http://www.brewcitymuscle.com/albums...0143.sized.jpg
Glad you got it Yoosof I had my phone in hand and the car/ tool box ready to go.
those bearing usually like to fall apart when pulling them. We have slide hammers at work that are nice but usually the same thign happens and the inside comes out not the whole thing. then we resort to air hammering the rest until it falls out
I got pretty good at changing them in the dark with nothing but a few sockets, some punches, a hammer, and a MAPP torch. Sucks every time. Got it down to about an hour and a half job. A good indicator that it's dying is if the ABS gets triggered periodically when turning.
Preload the bearing properly or you'll be doing it again within a year.
When the time comes to do the other side, it will be a cinch knowing what needs to be done and in what order to do them in.Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath
How do you preload the bearing anyway?
Donny, that bearing was coming apart before I began hitting it. That gap in the pics was just after soaking it nothing more!
I Just did two hubs on a 02' silverado that we sold. Big hammer, lots of pounding. lol
JEFf
just get the hub assembly and save yourself the headacheQuote:
Originally Posted by Yooformula
usually the ones we do are just as bac as what your saying was. weve had a few acually worse and people are just like oh i thought my brakes were grinding. some people i tell ya. wen those go bad there reall bad
thats what I did, I got the entire assembly for the hub/bearing and the cv joint/axle shaft. From the post, I thought there was some sort of preload procedure for that one.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 bad z's