Stumped!

So guys... It's been like a million years since I posted on here last. :wooo Anyway... Because this is totally f-ing me up, I need some answers. This dude that I work with owns a 2006 Mustang V6 (yeah, I know, I made fun of him too. LOL) and was driving it today and it randomly just died. I mean lost all electrical power DIED! I am not familiar with newer Mustangs as I used to own/fix an '87 but holy crap... this thing wouldn't even communicate with my code reader. There were no dash lights (not even a check engine light) , no radio, no power to the windows, and absolutely NOTHING when the key was in the ON position. I tried the headlights and hazards and they worked but that was pretty much it. Had it towed to a buddy's shop and now she sits; much like a paper weight. He told me that he had gone over a speed bump going about 10 Mph and then it died. The first thing I asked him was if it had fuel but it did. I have no clue whatsoever what could be going on with this thing and need to ask here so that he doesn't get totally jerked over by the local Ford dealership. They LOVE to prey on people around here because most people around here are military. HELP a sister in need friends!!! :stare:confused PLEASE????

Check/tighten the battery cable ends. If they are good and tight check the voltage of the battery. Should be 12.6 ish volts. If it's too low replace the battery. After this is done use a volt meter and with the shitstang running check for voltage again at the battery. Running with good output from the ALT it should be at least 13.8-14.4 Volts If the alt is charging anything lower then 13.4 volts then the Alt is also bad or on it's way out. If that's the case then the alt stopped charging the battery and the car ran until the battery drained. Hope this helps.

I checked the battery and it is fine... Yikes... Now what?

With the list of things that dont work its not going to be too hard to isolate, large power lead to an accesory fuse panel or a failed maxi fuse (underhood). Put the key to the run position and start wiggeling the large red wires that branch off battery and/or starter towards an underhood fuse panel, everything will start clicking when you get close. If no luck that route start checking the large fuses in the underhood panel, they feed the little fuses in car, Im guessing underhood power source...oh and nice to hear from you every 3 yrs or so!

^+1. This is what my second part after you've checked out the main power supply. I.e. The battery. So it could be in the POS (+) side of the system or the NEG (-) side of the system. Weird that is happened at the moment of driving over a speed bump. Could be a wire that shorted out causing a maxi fuse or mini fuse to blow. Remember fuses just don't blow for no reason, something overloaded which ever circuit has a blown fuse.

Hi hon!!

if the battery tests good im betting a alt. or a alt,supply or delivery wire

Awww... I am trying to come on here more often. :D Anyway... yeah, she just died in the middle of driving. I have a feeling it's a fuse as well and the first thing I did was disconnect the subs that he had hooked up. I think that something shorted out too. I tried wiggling those wires and of course was by myself while doing it so I will try again today, I think. I hate newer cars. I won't even attempt to look under my hood in my 2007 Jetta other than oil changes and filter changes. I have an issue with her right now too that I would love to fix myself now that she is no longer under warranty. Damn having to drive a lot of miles to get anywhere around here. :D

I miss everyone!!!

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Originally Posted by Russ Jerome

With the list of things that dont work its not going to be too hard to isolate, large power lead to an accesory fuse panel or a failed maxi fuse (underhood). Put the key to the run position and start wiggeling the large red wires that branch off battery and/or starter towards an underhood fuse panel, everything will start clicking when you get close. If no luck that route start checking the large fuses in the underhood panel, they feed the little fuses in car, Im guessing underhood power source...oh and nice to hear from you every 3 yrs or so!

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i see ya posting like hell on FB hope all is goin well and hope u iron out the electrical gremlin in teh poop stain i mean mustang :thumbsup

Yeah... I don't know. I just gave up. LOL Nah... It's sitting in my friend's shop waiting on the next word. Looks like the dealership's getting this one back. Ha ha.

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Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

i see ya posting like hell on FB hope all is goin well and hope u iron out the electrical gremlin in teh poop stain i mean mustang :thumbsup

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do the newer fords still use an enersha (sp) switch in the trunk if so check to make sure it didnt pop

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Originally Posted by 885.0stang

do the newer fords still use an enersha (sp) switch in the trunk if so check to make sure it didnt pop

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yea good call if it was loose and he hit the speed bump pretty good could have set it off

Pretty sure the inertia switch only cuts the fuel pump off, shouldn't do anything to the rest of the car electrically.

no i had a crown in a demo derby that the switch popped and i had nada in the car fixed and car started

Inertia switch would not disable the ADL and OBD2 com link, all codes and system readiness tests have to be visible to big brother whenever they want.

Yeah, the car won't even communicate with the code reader so that makes me think it's the main motherboard to the computer.

^^^ if its anything like a GM the ALDL (Under-dash connector) has a fuse, if there is no 12v power present to power up a reader, then the power supply has gone away... GM stuff had it on the acc circuit with the cig lighters. But something tells me this is a symptom only. K.I.S.S. (keep it simple, stupid) method is best for this kinda troubleshooting! Obviously something that supplys most of the fuse box with power OR grounds it is the issue here as the head lights and flashers still recieve power?? besides, the probability of a code being generated that will provide info for a silver bullet fix is highly unlikely.

A fuse, connection or corrosion issue in the fuse box area or something like that has gotta be going on.

Nope, it ain't the inertia switch. Just checked it out. This one's a doozy...

are you using a code reader with the "can" capability? I used a older actron(orange) obd2 code reader on my 04 explorer and it said " unable to link" or something like that.

I saw this show on UFO's and........

Well can the code scanner read the computer if there's no power?

Sorry it's been so long... Work has been hectic. Anyway... I figured it out. Whoever installed the stereo did it wrong and something would short out. I disconnected the stereo and she started right up. Freakin' hack jobs. :D