Anybody ever run a Mallory Unilite?

So here's the deal....I got a free Mallory Unilite distributor for the 383 in my T-Bucket. I've been doing alittle reading and it says to run a power filter (part# MAA-29351) otherwise I'll end up stranded from frying out the little photo eyes in the module. The circuit already has a Ballast resistor in it and I was wondering if that's enough, or do I need to get the "power filter" as well as the ballast resistor? I can't seem to find a definitive answer anywhere......was wondering if anyone had any experience with one of these. Do the Ballast Resistor and Power Filter do the same thing?

Pete,
according to mallory's website, you must run a ballast resistor. Heres a link:
http://www.malloryperformance.com/pdf/1214M.pdf

Yes.
They suck donkey balls for multiple reasons.

Ya, I printed the schematic for it with the ballast resistor, but I guess my main question is, Is "power filter" just an over-priced different name for "ballast resistor"? If that's the case, my junk already has one wired in dangling behind the alternator so it isn't visible to the unteained eye ;-)

I figured it was free and way better than the points.....I got the cap and rotor today from summit but the little springloaded dick-for on the inside of the cap broke during shipping.....maybe it's an omen of things to come.....err, cum....

The way I read it, is the power filter stabalizes the voltage so there are no spikes, while the resistor's job is to reduce the voltage to an acceptable level.

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Originally Posted by pjturkey

I figured it was free and way better than the points.....

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You might want to re-figure. As DR.FORD said they are garbage. Sell it, trade it, do what ever and then get yourself a B motor electronic distributor, make sure the wiring and pick-up are good, set the reluctor/pick-up gap and then get a chrome or gold ignition box. The only thing I had that worked better was an MSD Crank Trigger and 7 AL2, and that was only at very high rpm. My car started much quicker with the stock electronic guts and the gold box.

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Originally Posted by HITMAN

You might want to re-figure. As DR.FORD said they are garbage. Sell it, trade it, do what ever and then get yourself a B motor electronic distributor, make sure the wiring and pick-up are good, set the reluctor/pick-up gap and then get a chrome or gold ignition box. The only thing I had that worked better was an MSD Crank Trigger and 7 AL2, and that was only at very high rpm. My car started much quicker with the stock electronic guts and the gold box.

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I have a stock Mopar electronic distributor and a chrome box (all used)....so I could go that route...it's more of a last resort because finding a place to mount it is a bit of an issue. (it's going in a t-bucket and I don't want it on the firewall). I was looking at an MSD but don't really have the cash for it.

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Originally Posted by pjturkey

I have a stock Mopar electronic distributor and a chrome box (all used)....so I could go that route...it's more of a last resort because finding a place to mount it is a bit of an issue. (it's going in a t-bucket and I don't want it on the firewall). I was looking at an MSD but don't really have the cash for it.

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You won't need an MSD unless you're planning on some sort of forced induction or nitrous. As for your chrome box, you could either mount it on the other side of the firewall in the passenger compartment, or maybe down on the frame somewhere. You have a much better ignition system than that Unijunk. I'd use it. Just be a little creative on where you mount the box.

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Originally Posted by HITMAN

You won't need an MSD unless you're planning on some sort of forced induction or nitrous. As for your chrome box, you could either mount it on the other side of the firewall in the passenger compartment, or maybe down on the frame somewhere. You have a much better ignition system than that Unijunk. I'd use it. Just be a little creative on where you mount the box.

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agreed,not too tough to make long wiring

Vote number 3 for the MP electronic ignition/chrome box combo. You're going to be hard pressed to find a more reliable, easy to work with unit for stock to moderately high levels of power for a mopar than this. And unlike the mallory/MSD pieces out there, they already come with a pretty damn good ignition curve...and the chrome box won't retard your spark at higher rpm's unlike the normal orange box.

Guess I'll give the stock/chrome box setup a shot then.

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Originally Posted by Prince Valiant

Vote number 3 for the MP electronic ignition/chrome box combo. You're going to be hard pressed to find a more reliable, easy to work with unit for stock to moderately high levels of power for a mopar than this. And unlike the mallory/MSD pieces out there, they already come with a pretty damn good ignition curve...and the chrome box won't retard your spark at higher rpm's unlike the normal orange box.

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Ok, I just ordered this one: Proform Part#: 66993 from Summit. 145 bucks for the whole shebang. My other stock distributor won't work....the driveshaft is too long and it looks like shit anyways.

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Originally Posted by pjturkey

Ok, I just ordered this one: Proform Part#: 66993 from Summit. 145 bucks for the whole shebang. My other stock distributor won't work....the driveshaft is too long and it looks like shit anyways.

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It was probably a R/B unit...interested in selling it. For cheap? :goof

well I'm supposed to give it back to the dude I got it from......but it kinda looks like poo anyways....I tried to clean it up the best I could but it still didnt look very nice and I broke one of the distributor cap hold-downs off because it was rusted in place.