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hello,
My buddy has a 79 305 in a caprice classic wagon its a demo derby car so no motor swap, I saw on a horse power tv epiosode awhile back a cam shaft that changee the fireing order and was a decent horsepower gain anyone know what i am talking about? any help or part numbers would be very helpful thanks eric
not bad for 200.00 and drove it home from superior wi
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why would you spend money on camshaft for a demo car?Quote:
Originally Posted by xxtremeteam
not being an ass,just wondering.
he wants to make alittle more horse power and is putting in a new timming chain any ways so he will be right in there to change it also from the eposide i saw it was a cheaper cam he probly wont do but asked me to get the info if i could
I'd try googling it, I've heard of a cam idea that works well when changing the firing order awhile ago, not sure if its really worth it though. Probably get just as much gain by swapping a regular cam in that keeps the firing order the way it is. Maybe a cam from a L69 would help? Not sure if that would work well with the stock LG4 heads from a 79'. A stock L69 cam should be pretty damn cheap anyway and probably worth some power.
swapping firing order 4&7 cam are drag only lift and duration will be too big for a stock 305
FROM SUMMIT
Lunati 50199ALUN $408.99
Brand: Lunati
Product Line: Lunati Custom Ground Camshafts
Part Number: LUN-50199ALUN
Camshaft; 4/7 Swap Camshaft; Chevy Small Block;
Camshafts made just for your needs.
Lunati offers these custom ground camshafts for a variety of applications. They are specifically made to provide the cam specs that meet your engine's requirements, allowing it to operate at peak efficienc
i would just install 1.6 rockers to get more lift and less work
i look in my service manual the cam you have is one of two
intake lift exhaust lift with 1.6 rocker rpo
.372 .400 in .397 ex .426 lg3 lg4
or
.390 .410 in .416 ex .437 lm1
but i have this a which is alittle bigger comp cams 12-207-2 forsale still in wrap package
heres specs
Brand: COMP Cams
Product Line: COMP Cams Dual Energy Camshafts
Part Type: Camshafts
Part Number: CCA-12-207-2
Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,200-5,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 203
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 212
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 203 int./212 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 255
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 261
Advertised Duration: 255 int./261 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.421 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.451 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.421 int./0.451 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
Intake Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Computer Controlled Compatible: No
Grind Number: CS 255DEH-10
CARB EO Number: D-279-3, D-279-5, D-279-6
Quantity: Sold individually.
Notes: For 1987 and earlier carbureted Chevy 262-400.
Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 255/261, Lift .421/.451, Chevy, Small Block, Each
These Dual Energy camshafts from COMP Cams have more exhaust duration and lift than intake. They are designed for applications where a slight sacrifice in low-end power is acceptable for an increase in mid and upper-range rpm horsepower. These cams are ideal for use with restricted exhaust port cylinder heads, or applications using a full-length exhaust system.
100.00
were are u guys runnin that thing i have a 350 with a rv cam in it and a 4:56 gear it moves out all right i guess if u were gonna cam something i would at least do a 350. Also leave the timing stock those 305 like the heat if u mess with the timing they act dumb but stock they basically never die. Any other ? lmk
Better off investing in skid steer like tyres for the back of the demo wagon than putting a cam in it, HP isn't needed as much as traction and you can pretty much hold 1st gear.
Besides its a known good/dependable? runner.
your set up is real nice the demos we run in pay like 300 or 500 to the winner isnt worth building to muchQuote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby
Its a 4,7 swap cam price around 250ish, Its not worth it for really any reason. Seen dirtrack dyno's #'s with an extra 10 hp thats about it. You can grab that with a better cam profile. Personally dont touch it. If class permits run a rod through firewall to dist. So when you get hit hard and car shuts off,you can take timing out to get it fired again. Kink (or cut) rear frame up (behind wheels)so when you hit it goes up not down. Work the chassis and youll do fine.:thumbsup
yea if u pull the detent cable all the way out and clamp it, it should stay in first gearQuote:
Originally Posted by Windsors 03 Cobra
my set-up is ok i still need a slider driveshaft which is 400bucks :punch::punch: but def. u need to get some doubled and tubed tires for the back of that thing and the front cause flats suck. any tips u want to know about demo derby go to the message board on www.wecrash.com im ynot racing on there if u need some infoQuote:
Originally Posted by xxtremeteam
we have double stuffed tires but he has both beaded i think the outer should not be on the bead what do you think? ive been on we cash a handle full of times not a member looks like im getting a taurus wagon for 100 runs and drives I ran muddrunners sable two years ago they are tough
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i ran this one on sat up at slinger ill have to get some after pics, there was a car there that was plated with 3/8ths plate front to back and had kickers from the cage out past the radiator
as for the double yes both tires should be on the bead and u should run a tube and move the valve stem inside the rim if not weld to bots in a V over the stem so it doesnt get ripped off
i posted the vid of me runnin at slinger on sun if u want to check it out in the vid section :thumbsup
You should weld up/secure the shifter linkage on the wagon also, doesn't help to have that break early on in a heat and one hit in the right spot is all it takes.