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I see this can be done a few different ways. Is it better to drill from the back and on an angle like the first pic or just straight in like the second pic? Should the hole in the wheel be small enough so the screw threads into it or larger so its just the tire?
http://www.ipgparts.com/images/rimscrew/finish.jpg
http://image.superchevy.com/f/105066..._kit+screw.jpg
Pony up a couple bucks and buy beadlocks. Screws are ghetto. Nothing says jank-ass trailer trash more than screws in the bead--not even a secondgen F-body sitting on blocks stacked the wrong way in front of a mobile home. Between seeing countless cars and offroad trucks with ruined tires and almost being run into the wall by a tard who thought screws were neat and had a tire shred I have no use for screws in the bead.
If you really want to use screws... make sure they're bias tires meant for it, preferably use tubes with them, use at least 12 screws per side, and drill the holes so the screws marginally thread into the wheel.
My beadlocks are Champions and cost $1700 for the pair. They are some of the least expensive beadlock wheels out there, and hardly a "few bucks" more! Plus I had to change to solid drag race rear rotors and small calipers to have them fit the car.
You may be good to go using High Tack on the beads. MANY drag radial guys are deep in the 8 second range with using high tack. Consider your tire type and horsepower level when deciding.
I have to say I have been around drag racing for a while:goof and see NO problem screwing the beads. Open a "Fastest Street Car" magazine and take a look-there is a whole lot of "jank" cars using them:rolf and I have NEVER seen or heard of a bead shredded from screws that were properly installed!
If you can high tack them, they will be worth more without screw holes when it is time to change-up:thumbsup
Wow, screws are ghetto? Better tell that to all those cars at the strip that are running slower than 6 seconds on screwed tires. I couldn't imagine a 9 second car that needs beadlocks instead of screws.
To the original poster, I run screws in my slicks after seeing the tires move on the rim, I only run 8 on each side but Mickey Thompson tech recommends 12. I drilled the holes slightly smaller than the screws so they had something to bite on. Guys also screw their radials though it's not recommended and if you have a slow leaker you may want to put tubes in, but it's not necessary.
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/i...h/RimScrew.jpg
There is a reason why you don't see alot of radials screwed to the rims, and it is not because of leakage.
I never seen any problem with rim screws...if you wana get technical.. beadlocks weigh more than rims screws.. but like Jim said concider your power levels.... The guys that have ther Radails screwed in you mite only see maybe 5 on each side... Slicks are way differnt they need alot more.. If i were to see a fellow racer with out screws in there slick tire car i would make it a point to explain why screws are used for.. NO screws in slicks = danger
I guess im just a dumb guy and new to this sport.... :)
ive run my et streets(bias) with just hi-tack and not had any problems. they moved about 1/8" and stayed there since. I dont run tubes. if you run tubes,screw the tire because the tube can get pulled by the tire,and that can rip the valve stem.
radials i wouldnt bother with any screws at all for most applications.
Hi-tack here on my radials, as stated above they moved about an 1/8th and that was it.
Depending on what kind of speeds/power levels you are talking about you probably don't need the screws in slicks. Some of the slower classes (mid 9s and slower) do not run screws or tubes in their slicks due to rotating weight reasons.
Never had screws in the slicks I had cause I never had tubes in them. That and it was only a high 10/low 11sec car. When it got a little bit faster and i had a transbrake i did the screws on the recommendation.
like everyone is saying, what's the power level and what's the setup? under 450rwhp i don't really see a need to booger up your wheels.
I should be around 550-600whp, the car does have a transbrake and I plan on having some fun with it. Just ordered some 26x10 M&H Racemasters. I was reading up on this and a lot of people who are running 9s-10s were having the tire spin up to 3 inches or so on a run. Having no idea what I'll run I'd rather be safe than sorry. Time to make some holey wheels.
I would always screw a slick! Back in the mid 10 second days, I had a et street spin on the rim on the street. Of course that was without hi-tach, but I think it is still a good idea.
I guess my only question would be, what street were you on and was it made of 2-grit sandpaper? :goofQuote:
Originally Posted by BOSS LX
I paid $1800 for a set of TIG welded and balanced aluminum double-beadlocks for my mud truck. I don't remember what they weigh, but it's less than the same size steel wheel without beadlocks. Where the weight is located on a small diameter wheel is of little consequence to performance. If the weight was located at the tread it'd be different. And if you have enough torque to spin a wheel in rubber I doubt an extra 10lbs per wheel is going to kill you.
On my S10 I ran bead glue. I spun a tire so much I had a bead leak from little rubber balls developing where it was spinning.
I always wanted to try running Stauns on a set of stickies as they're only about 7lbs on 17" wheels. I never had a vehicle with enough power to warrant beadlocks for straight line use while I had my Stauns.
90% of the cars at the strip are screwed lol
Are you still planning on going to the track Friday night?
Fo shizzle. Got the new slicks/skinnies coming and a bunch of other stuff so I'll have a lot to do Friday before I can go. Are you going to come?Quote:
Originally Posted by Voodoo
I don't think so this weekend. Got a lot of prep to do for Saturday, plus I need to be up and ready for guests at 8am :drool: Are you gonna come party?Quote:
Originally Posted by letsrunem
I'll be there for sure!