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Need help, 2000 BLACK Camaro,...
i have a 2000 Black SS Camaro, with 45,000miles.
it has some stone chips, and swirl marks from washing/waxing.
i want to touch up the black paint chips,
remove all the swirl scratches,
and wax the car.
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the leather seats in my wifes 2003 SSEi pontiac, are starting to crack.
help!
THANK YOU
mike mlinar
:)
To do it right, there are some body shop people that have a great ability to airbrush and do spot work that is nearly undetectable. I would research that first then you would have to step up to some sort of machine polisher. A Porter Cable or a FLEX like I carry will provide a safe way to apply swirl removers and polishers and have the power to remove these swirl marks. A FLEX has the ability to remove more swirl marks / light scratches and to do the job in less time. A few pads and swirl removers and the Poorboy's World Black Hole glaze will do the majority of the work. (See the other Black Hold Glaze thread).
Once that is all done I would put on a sealant (EX-P, Tropi-care xP, or Auto-Balm [all on my site]). Then go for a wax. Poorboy's World Natty's Blue is easy to work with and will add depth and coverage for any remaining swirl marks.
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As far as the Leather - I like Zymol cleaner and Zymol conditioner. The reason why I like them so much is they simply work without leaving grease in its place. The conditioner really softens the leather while not sticking in the perforation holes or leaving any type of residue behind.
OK
I need the Leather Cleaner, and Conditioner now.
i live in SM, and work in West Allis.
can i stop and pick it up from you,
or
would it be better to order on line?
I will PM you my phone numbers.
I told you mike. You need more porter cable buffer I have. It will need pads tho because I lost the ones I had moving.
why didn't you leave it at my house today?
you were here.
Can i borrow it?
Where do i get the pads from?
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTSLOW
I came from Lake Geneva you = :gay I'm sure Jon can sell you the pads. However you may want to ask him for lessons on it also. You can do two things with a good buffer a) make your paint much much worse or b) do a hell of a job and it will look great.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTSLOW
i thought that the PC and the FLEX were pretty user friendly and you would have to TRY and fuck up your paint to mess it up.. ie they don't go fastenough to burn the paint. unless you use a dry ass pad on dry paint... or something only a stupid dumb shit would do..
Not completely true - and burning your paint isn't the only thing you need to worry about.Quote:
Originally Posted by 0TransAm0
Cars with varying hardnesses of clear coats will react very different to some types of cutting liquids. I've seen someone take a "harmless" $15 random orbital from walmart and swirl their paint to where I could not fix it.
That being said - if you have any clue what you're doing, the flex is pretty easy to use. If you're really afraid of burning paint, throw some tape on hard body lines.
I'm sure Jon has other words of wisdom.
It's a double edged sword. I know the FLEX can get out more imperfections than a PC or lesser powered random orbital. It's no substitute for wetsanding or rotary buffing deeper scratch marks. I view it as the ultimate DIY buffing tool that doesn't require expert body-shop experience.Quote:
Originally Posted by PureSound15
I'm watching eagerly for Lake Country to come out with a smaller backing plate setup for the FLEX which would allow you to use smaller pads and to get into some of these smaller areas that a 6.5" pad simply wont fit.
-Jon